Hurricane Abby Hits Seoul

Shedding light on the "black box"

2009-06-12T15:11:00.002+09:00

Current TV journalists Euna Lee (L) and Laura Ling were sentenced Monday to 12 years in a North Korean labor camp

The case of San Francisco-based Current TV journalists Euna Lee (a Korean-American) and Laura Ling, who were sentenced by a North Korean court earlier this week to 12 years in a labor camp for illegal entry and an unspecified "hostile" act, has been grabbing a fair amount of coverage in the South Korean press. The story has even topped reports of another disturbing detainment case involving one of the country's own, a South Korean employee of the the inter-Korean Gaeseong Industrial Complex who's been held in the North since March 30 on charges of criticizing Pyongyang and trying to lure a North Korean worker into defection.

Covering North Korea can be both professionally challenging and potentially dangerous for journalists. Scoop-seeking reporters can hardly resist the temptation to snag exclusive photos across the heavily guarded border, and those who actually work their way into the secretive state are considered the lucky few, even if they're mostly fed propaganda and presented with an inaccurately attractive view of the place. But as long as the North remains an elusive, trash-talking, rights-violating nuclear threat, people will look to journalists to provide an inside look, however narrow it may be, into Kim Jong-il's bizarre regime. Although media reports have been fact-based and offer little editorial comment about Lee and Ling's case, I've heard several comments suggesting the reporters should be punished for hindering U.S. diplomatic efforts with North Korea, if not by North Korea then by their own government. Pyongyang is widely considered to be using the Americans as a bargaining chip in negotiations with the Obama administration, a tangled mess that many would agree didn't need additional knots.

This week I had the opportunity to interview someone who faces the challenges of covering North Korea on a daily basis, KBS domestic television reporter Lee Woong-soo (pictured at left). Mr. Lee's comments were included in Thursday's edition of Seoul Calling. Here's a transcript of the interview:

AR: Can you explain some challenges you face as a reporter when covering stories about North Korea?

LWS: North Korea is commonly known as the 'Black box' because it's extremely hard to gain access. This is very inconvenient for a reporter. Materials and data are also very rare. All the information we get is from either Rodong Newspaper or KRT(Korean Central News Agency), which are North Korea's own news sources. There are also North Korean defectors, but their information is very restricted and hard to verify.

AR: Do you think coverage of North Korea has changed under the Lee Myung-bak administration?

LWS: Of course it has. Not only between the North and South but also between the North Korea and America so as a whole, the news content has become fairly negative. The maintenance of the Kaesong Industrial Complex, missiles and nuclear tests, to name a few. It seems as if this state will continue for some time now. Regarding the past, diplomatic conversation almost always followed extreme circumstances, so hopefully, this tension will soon ease.

AR: As a reporter, do you find it frustrating to cover stories about a secretive nation?

LWS: As I've mentioned earlier, North Korea is a strictly controlled nation. It not only controls the citizens but also the flow of information, both in and out. No other country can match their system of control. North Korea only reveals information that works in their favour. Besides, The North's and South's relationship has worsened recently so it's even harder to gain access. North Korean related materials are difficult to verify so if anything happens in the North we feel extremely trapped.

AR: What do you think the South Korean people want to know about North Korea?

LWS: South Koreans want to know a lot about North Korea. Almost everything, to be clear. They want to know the North's way of thinking, and living. Because North Korean problems have a great political, economical, and social influence on the South and because of the belief that one day we will unite as one whole nation. The issue of the day might be the North Korean regime, or in other words, the destiny of Kim Jong-il's regime.

AR: Do you think journalists who cover North Korea have a responsibility to avoid dangerous situations that may impact their country’s diplomatic efforts with the North?

LWS: I think so, yes. The media should work towards keeping an eye on National Policy and informing the public, but not towards hurting national interests. Of course national interests should be differed from interests of the regime. Diplomatic issues are often [dealt with] in privacy. Especially the North. So the media should find a means of balance between the public's right to know and protecting national interests. Neither slanting towards the other. It's a very sensitive issue, like walking on a tightrope.

Democratic fervor continues 22 years after historic movement

2009-06-11T14:35:00.001+09:00

Wednesday marked the 22nd anniversary the June 10th, 1987 pro-democracy movement that led to South Korea's first direct presidential elections. Koreans struggled for their still-young democracy and now they're using their hard-fought rights to speak out against the current Lee Myung-bak government. This year's June 10th commemoration comes on the heels of the death of a former president known for his efforts toward democratization. His suicide added fuel to the fire of government opponents who accuse the Lee administration of infringing basic freedoms, such as the right to assemble and freedom of speech. Despite a police ban on yesterday's demonstration, some 30-thousand people flooded Seoul Plaza downtown. They were joined by about 12-thousand police officers. Although police attributed the ban to the chance that the gathering could turn violent and disruptive, the event was mostly peaceful. Local media are highlighting some isolated scuffles between police and demonstrators, but compared with the anti-U.S. beef rallies that grabbed international media attention last year for their violent clashes, yesterday's gathering was much less volatile.

Thursday's Seoul Calling program features interviews with some rally participants. My Seoul Calling co-host, Matt Kelley, and I were on the scene Wednesday evening. Thanks to Matt for these photos, which he shot while I conducted interviews.

Lady-friendly Seoul

2009-06-08T14:13:00.008+09:00

Ladies only parking in Mokdong, western Seoul.

It's fun to imagine what the half-circle could be if not a skirt. Surfboard? Sunset?

In late April the Seoul Metropolitan Government announced plans to make Korea more female-friendly. Sounds great to those of my variety, but some the ideas put forth by the overwhelmingly male-staffed government to reach this goal are at the same time humorous and mildly offensive. Parking spaces designated as ladies-only have been a big media attraction. Complete with pink paint and skirted icons, the spaces certainly brighten up the city's public parking areas. Perhaps its not the idea itself that's questionably altruistic, but the way in which officials and media are describing it. Take, for example, this passage from the Korea Times:

The spaces will be painted pink with emblems of women in the center. The special parking lots will be longer and wider than normal parking spaces.

I guess stereotypes of female drivers are cross-cultural. Some web browsing tells me ladies-only spaces in other Korean cities may utilize differnet emblems to keep men at bay. Although the design below is purtier, I prefer the more elusive skirt/surfboard/sunset option.

Iksan opts for floral feminine markers

Although I don't drive in Seoul, I'd be more inclined to take advantage of the exclusive spots in a huge city where vehicles are plentiful and parking is scarce than to complain about sexism. The female-only spots are also reportedly well lit and located nearer elevators, exits, and security guards.

The media's go-to government spokesperson on this issue is Assistant Mayor for Women and Family Affairs Cho Eun-hee. Ms. Cho told the Korea Times, "It is like adding a female touch to a universal design and make things more comfortable for women."

Ladies only spots flank Yeouido Park

The she-spots, as my friend Matt likes to call them, are just part of the city's plan to make the ladies happy. In fact, the "Women Friendly Seoul" initiative is a 95-million dollar endeavor which includes installing nearly 7,000 female toilets around the capital and replacing heel-eating brick sidewalks with a more stiletto-friendly squishy surface. Personally, I'm a big fan of the bouncy sidewalks. Some even offer a deceptive brick-like design that once made my sister-in-law believe she had drunk one two many glasses of soju with dinner.

You can see a green squishy sidewalk in the back, left corner

Spicing up public transportation

2009-06-08T14:12:00.001+09:00

Decorations abound in Seoul area public transportation these days. Silk flowers grace the interiors of city buses that serve my home-work route, along with banners declaring something about love, flowers, and Gwangmyeong City. I remember similar scenes aboard the same buses around this time last year, so it's possible the floral outpouring is in observance of May's family-focused holidays (Children's Day on the 5th, Parent's Day on the 8th) and Teacher's Day on the 15th.

Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera in hand over the weekend when I noticed strings of fake garlic hanging overhead in my subway train. The garlic, along with some scary-looking faux birds (I'm an ornithophobe), plastic crabs, and posters with scenic shots of Korea's western coastline were promoting the city of Taean. The region was struck by the nation's worst oil spill in December 2007. Since then, you can imagine why the once bustling fishing town has seen a decrease in visitors anxious to taste the local fare. Recent news reports say the water is clear these days, and the residents are no doubt hoping the government's efforts to draw visitors back will prove effective. KBS colleage Sarah Jun recently visited Taean and said she didn't encounter many crowds during her visit, but she did reluctantly indulge in some clams, from which she reported no ill side effects!

I'll try to catch the Taean subway car (Line 1) sometime this week and share some shots of the non-odoriferous garlic. (In my experience, public transport around Korea is already plenty redolent of garlic fields.)

To all the teachers who told me to shut my trap . . .

2009-05-18T15:00:00.011+09:00

Because I was born on July 25, 1982, in the wee hours of the morning my wealth in life (although still unrealized) will come from my mouth. That's according to a fortune teller in Seoul's Myeongdong neighborhood to whom my friend Maria and I paid a visit Sunday evening. Fortune telling is called 사주 (saju) in Korean and practitioners are generally well-respected and curiously trusted. After asking for your four pillars -- year, month, day, and hour of your birth -- fortune tellers consult something of a trade bible of Chinese characters that apparently tells them when you'll marry, what kind of career you'll have, and possibly that your body will have a difficult time breaking down alcohol in your later years (at least that's what my fortune teller told me--bummer).

Fortune telling is quite popular in South Korea with "professionals" commanding about 50 bucks for some quick projections about career, love, and health. Venues ranging from ramshackle street kiosks equipped with kerosene heaters through Seoul's brutal winter to stylish coffee shops draw intrigued customers around the clock. Some fortune tellers sell their wares over the phone or through the Internet. The fortune telling business booms around the beginning of the year but it seems to attract customers year round.

Maria's reading

Maria served as an eager interpreter through my reading, expressing what the fortune teller was saying through at times extremely comical direct translation . As Maria delivered each prediction in English, the fortune teller would pause, lock eyes with me, and nod repeatedly with a solemn stare, coaxing me into belief. I took hurried but comprehensive notes. Here are a few of the things my fortune teller predicted:

-There will be many students in my future; I will likely teach at a university (woo hoo!)

-I make money with my mouth (direct translation)

-My words are like a never-ending waterfall and public speaking is my strong point

-This year or next would be a good year for me to get married

-The end of this year will be very busy for me and will likely include a major move or travel and a new job

-My character won't change as I grow old

-My parents really like my boyfriend

-I'll work professionally into old age

-My health is good, but my body will have problems breaking down alcohol later in life

-November 2009 will be a lucky month for me

The cafe walls are plastered in customers' post-reading reactions

Maria with a recap

Bus Crazies

2009-04-24T19:30:00.007+09:00

The "worldwide economic downturn" is the scapegoat for just about any societal change in Korea these days, and perhaps in the rest of the world as well. Here, it's reportedly leading to increased condom sales and lower marriage and birth rates. Instant noodle manufacturers are enjoying a heyday, but restaurants are supposedly crying in their soup (although restaurants throughout the capital city look just as packed on weekend nights as they did one year ago).

One thing I wouldn't dispute is that sales of cheap alcohol are on the rise. The only hard evidence I have of this fact is the overwhelming stench of soju breath on public transportation these days, coupled with a group of people I'm calling the "Bus Crazies." Sure, public buses in any city are prime venues for a ragtag cross section of society, but I think the oddity is definitely on the upswing. I suspect the global financial crunch has pushed those teetering on the boundary between everyday weirdo and all-out loon well over the edge, and one-dollar Korean rice booze (soju, makgeoli--pick your poison) is all the nudging it takes. I'm used to having no clue what's going on around me here in Korea, but when I notice all the locals are just as perplexed, I figure something is amiss. I encountered the expressive gentleman below during a recent bus ride home from work. It was quite entertaining to watch his monologue progress into a two or three character conversation -- with each role played by Mr. Makgeoli.

Busan

2009-04-14T15:46:00.020+09:00

In late March, I finally took the opportunity to explore South Korea's second largest city, Busan, which also happens to be the world's fifth largest seaport. Located on Korea's southern coast, Busan is a popular destination for beachcombers, foreign sailors, Japanese tourists, and perhaps in 2020, Olympians. Busan is vying to play host to the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Enjoying some hwae (sushi) on Haeundae Beach. Photo by Matt Kelley.

A chilly Haeundae Beach

Now that you have the same image of Busan I had before seeing it in person--seafood, sandy beaches, colorful vistas--I can't help but share my actual first impression of the city. My KTX train chugged into town after dark on a Saturday evening and, since my cronies were stuck in traffic an hour away, I spent my first two hours upon arrival perusing the vicinity of the station. I was quickly lured into "Chinatown," a neighborhood seemingly inoccuous from afar. Despite the oriental moniker, once I ventured past the red lanterns hanging around the perimeter I began to wonder if I had somehow detrained in Vladivostok. The area may be the closest thing Busan has to a Chinatown, but it's every bit as much Russian sailorville, Southeast Asian prostitiuteburg, and American GI City. I suppose it's just like me to unknowlingly head straight for the seediest part of town, and then start taking pictures.

Chinatown, a.k.a. "Texas Street"

Thankfully, there's plenty to enjoy beyond Busan's mixing bowl of international vice. The ports, beaches, narrow alleyways, and cool bridges are all fun to check out on foot, but my favorite part of the trip was viewing the city from the sky. A trip up Busan Tower reveals a colorful, hilly port city oddly reminiscent of Latin America and San Francisco all at once. It sure ain't Seoul!

Haeundae is one of the nation's most famous beaches, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors every weekend during warm-weather months. Unfortuantely for ornithophobes like me, it's also a hot spot for pigeons, seagulls, and the crazies who like to feed them. If I ever decide to overcome my fear through shock therapy, Haeundae would be a prime location to undergo treatment.

My worst nightmare on Haeundae Beach. Photo by Matt Kelley

For more detailed information about Busan, check out Matt Kelley's Discovering Korea blog.

Noryangjin Fish Market, Seoul

2009-03-25T09:10:00.019+09:00

Seoul's largest wholesale fish market, Noryangjin, is located on the southeastern outskirts of Yeouido amid the shadows of the imposing skyscrapers of the capital city's "Manhattan". Follow your nose to the fish market and you'll feel like you've crossed over to the proverbial other side of the tracks. Goodbye glitzy Trump building, hello dingy fish town!

Since I paid my visit in the evening, I missed out on the lively, fast-paced market atmosphere. For that, I'd have to hit Noryangjin in the wee hours of the morning when vendors from 700ish individual shops bid on the day's catch. Around 7pm, the market was quieter than I had expected, with retailers surly feeling the fatigue of a long day's work and suited businesspeople looking for some after-work grub. The vinyl-aproned staff of Noryangjin's shops are obviously accustomed to the wide eyes and camera flashes of tourists, and I was surprised by how amenable most vendors were to my particuarly intrusive photo-snapping style.

The wide array of sea life was a bit overwhelming for a novice, and coming from a country where consumers are largely removed from the process of how a creature becomes cuisine, it felt a little strange selecting a live fish to be killed, sliced, and served on the spot. Thankfully, my KBS cohorts were experienced shoppers and hagglers.

After bargaining for whatever fits your fancy, market employees quickly and deftly turn live swimmers into sashimi. Then they neatly arrange the fish on sturdy paper plates, complete with little oniony garnishes. The remaining carcass is bagged up and saved for a reappearance in tasty soup. Save room for the eyeballs!

One of Noryangjin's greatest features is its adjacent restaurants where you can round out your experience, and your belly, by digging right into your purchase. All the necessary accouterments (soy sauce, wasabi, lettuce, kimchi) are on hand, and restaurant staff begins cooking your fish remnant soup while you get started on the raw fish. It's not fancy, but it was fresh and very economical. My group of six paid about $20 each for as much sashimi, fish soup, seafood pancake (해물파전), and soju we could handle.

Media is the new U.S. beef

2009-03-01T19:39:00.007+09:00

About ten years ago the government turned Yeouido asphalt slab into Yeouido Park. By the time I arrived in Seoul, it had become a lovely, verdant spot redolent of cherry blossoms in the springtime and the far less appealing beondegi (silk worm larvae) whenever food vendors set up to serve the passersby. I've heard the impetus for cultivating the park was the government's hope to squelch mass demonstrations by civic groups that had become frequent occurrences on Yeouido asphalt slab.

If that were truly the goal, however, perhaps they shouldn't have left a sizable amount of asphalt in the middle. Most days just bikers, rollerbladers, and basketball players occupy the space, but anytime the country becomes ripe with government distaste (which seems to occur frequently), the park revisits its past. The hot button issue of the month is a set of controversial media reform bills, which include the government and ruling party's plan to privatize the broadcasting sector (something I might even be convinced to fight against if protesting were my thing--instead, I just take pictures). Home to the nation's three top broadcasters and the parliament building, Yeouido was the perfect spot for unionists and other activists to gather Saturday afternoon for a good old fashioned protest. At least it's not about U.S. beef this time!

Happy Valentine's Day!

2009-02-14T21:42:00.009+09:00

An orphan Valentine card collects rain drops Friday.

The 14th day of the month is almost always some kind of occasion in Korea. Yesterday was Valentine's Day, of course, a holiday which is gaining popularity by both lovers and businesses each year, but it's just one in a string of "Days" that call upon one subgroup or another to celebrate, bestow, mourn, eat, or get drunk whilst walking in the woods. For instance, the month of October utilizes a homonym for its 14th. Koreans give apples (sagwa) to apologize (also sagwa) for past infractions. Here are some shots taken around Seoul on Friday and Saturday.

Saturday morning subway traffic was sparse, but I did notice a few passengers laden with gifts, cakes, and flowers.

Despite what I thought was charming coaxing on my part to get Ms. Flowers to remove her hand from her mouth, she didn't oblige. Maybe she had chocolate on her teeth. Nonetheless, she and her beau seemed to be having a delightful Valentine's Day.

Korea's commercial sector has fully embraced the Western holiday.

Convenience store employees braved Saturday evening's cold temperatures to peddle V-Day goodies near subways and bus stops.

Valentine’s Day in Korea favors dudes, since it’s widely accepted as an occasion for women to profess their affection for the men in their lives through chocolates, cakes that look too cute to cut, and any number of other well-marketed goodies that spoony lovers can’t resist. For more about Korea’s unique Valentine’s Day customs, see last year’s post.

Snow days

2009-02-04T14:42:00.001+09:00

Here are some belated photos I took during and after a spattering of snow over the Lunar New Year holiday. As I mentioned last week, Seoul has seen warmer temperatures in the first couple weeks of the (lunar) new year, so these may be the last shots of the white stuff for awhile.

Braving the snow for a shopping trip through Seoul's Edae neighborhood, home of Ewha Womans University. I'm not sure if using umbrellas during a snowfall is unique to Korea (maybe my international readers can help me here), but I've never witnessed it in other countries. Makes sense, though!

A romantic, and icy cold, walk along the Cheonggye Stream that runs through downtown Seoul.

Interesting advertising strategy outside an Edae shop, but I didn't notice any takers during the five or ten minutes I spent observing the peculiar scene.

No takers for the "Fresh Fruit Candy", either, but you have to applaud the tenacity of the vendor.

Has spring sprung?!

2009-01-30T15:39:00.000+09:00

Probably not, but the balmy temps and sunny skies over Seoul today have me daydreaming about shedding the winter coat and pulling on the short pants. At 12 degrees Celcius (about 54F), it's hard to believe the city was covered in snow just a few days ago (I'll post some snow pics this weekend). I joined some colleagues from the English news department for a lunchtime jaunt around Yeouido and noticed many people out enjoying the break in wintry weather. I've been told it's typical for Korea to experience a string of three cold days followed by four warm days throughout the winter. It's called sam han sa on (삼한 사온), literally, "three cold, four hot".

Ring in the (Lunar) New Year with SPAM!

2009-01-26T20:14:00.013+09:00

When I return to work on Wednesday after a four-day vacation in the name of the Lunar New Year, my Korean colleagues will all be a year older. Never having adhered to customs associated with the moon, I'll still be 26 (not 28--Koreans are considered one year old at birth and add on one year with each birthday, as well as on the Lunar New Year). So I'm spared a year, but since I don't really celebrate Seollal I did miss out on something many across the country received as a token of love or appreciation on Korea's most widely celebrated holiday: a gift set. From the practical to the extravagant, the edible to the spreadable, almost anything can be found packaged neatly in a gift set around the Lunar New Year. A local newspaper reported that ginseng is this year's gift of choice, but multi-packs of Spam, soap, assorted nuts, cooking oil, toothbrushes, whisky, tuna cans, apples, instant coffee, and moisturizers are also in bountiful supply in supermarkets, big box stores, and even convenience stores. These economic arrangements are typical around Christmas in the U.S., but the variety pales in comparison to what Korea has to offer. I'm not sure what giving (or receiving) a two-year supply of toothpaste says, but I've certainly seen worse gifts.

Mushrooms and the like ranging from about $40 up to $100

E-Mart employees were decked out in traditional hanbok a day before Seollal and eagerly peddling gift sets.

Those oughtta be some tasty apples! 12 for ~$45

Never . . . eating . . . McDonald's . . . again . . .

2009-01-16T13:47:00.013+09:00

Although I've indulged in Mickey D's more often than I'd like to admit in in the Unites States, I've largely avoided it since moving to Seoul. This is mostly because I've tried to establish and maintain a healthier lifestyle, but also because I always fear that locals who see me entering the store will think, "Check out the fat American going in for a Big Mac!"

But after my friend and KBS co-worker, Luke, and I underwent a months-long diet and exercise regimen (during which french fries and cheeseburgers started to sound mighty appetizing) we decided to take a trip to McDonald's to devour all the greasy, salty, mystery meaty goodness we could possibly stomach. And the point was to eat as much as we could. We wanted to kill the temptation once and for all, or at least for the next six months or so. So after hitting my lowest weight since high school earlier this week we decided now was as good a time as any to embrace our inner over eaters.

Between us, we ate one Big Mac, six cheeseburgers, one McChicken sandwich, two medium orders of french fries, one large order french fries, three strawberry milkshakes, one chocolate milkshake, three Cokes, and about twelve packets of ketchup. For me, it was literally a gut-wrenching experience. For one thing, I don't handle dairy well in this country, so I was feeling sick half way through the first milkshake, yet proceeded to drink the rest plus one more. The physical implications started there and quickly spiraled downward. The next morning Luke claimed the food extravaganza had given him acne. Neither of us is craving McDonald's anymore, though!

Luke used McDonald's nutrition facts to calculate our caloric intake. As he itemized our smorgasbord of gluttony on grease-stained receipts I wriggled around in my chair, trying to find the most comfortable position for my bulging belly and aching midsection. The result: 3,500 calories for Luke and 2,375 for yours truly.

Andong Mask Festival

2008-12-14T12:30:00.002+09:00

Here's a belated report from an early October trip to Andong, Gyeongsang Province, a few hours southeast of Seoul. The area is famous for traditional Korean cuisine eaten to honor ancestors (heotjesabap, similar to bibimbap), an old Confucian academy, and Andong's annual mask festival. Matt Kelley and I joined throngs of festival goers on an uncharacteristically hot October weekend. Here are some photos from the festival. For more information about North Gyeongsang Province, visit Matt's "Discovering Korea" website.

Seoul, city of SOCKS!

2008-12-10T17:49:00.001+09:00

Can't decide what to buy your friends and fam for Christmas? I suggest socks! And Seoul has plenty of 'em. One can't help but notice the prevalence of sock vendors around the city; in the subways, along the sidewalks, and one after another in any shopping area. They range from the practical to the downright wacky. They're long, short, plain, colorful, and some even get political. Korean heartthrobs grace the cotton of some varities, along with old standbys Mickey and Minnie Mouse and Hello Kitty. Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and "Coach" socks go for just two or three dollars a pair on the streets of Itaewon. In fact, they're as afforable as their less illustrious counterparts. So, this holiday season, stuff the stockings with . . . stockings!

I'm particularly keen on the variety of tights in Korea. In a rainbow of colors, they come with feet, without feet, and even with half a foot . . . but no heel. A fashionista's options are endless!

Wintertime offerings get warmer 'n fuzzier, but socks are plentiful in Seoul year-round.

The won-yen exchange rate has brought many a Japanese tourist to Korea in recent weeks just for shopping. Something tells me they aren't buying "Dokdo Love" socks, though. I wonder if there are "Takeshima Love" socks in Japan???

Street squatting

2008-12-03T15:02:00.006+09:00

In a previous post, I marveled over the prevalence of squatting among Koreans. It seems like anywhere you go, from the bus stop to the peaks of Mount Seorak, you'll find locals young and old resting on their haunches for seemingly excruciating amounts of time. I thought I had seen it all until I noticed a particularly dangerous display of this cultural phenomenon on my way to work a couple weeks ago. Does this woman have a death wish, or what?! Unfortunately, my video doesn't actually do this death-defying act justice. By the time I wrestled my camera from my bag, the traffic light was changing from green to yellow and the cars were slowing in speed and frequency, but you get the picture.

Kimjang

2008-11-26T16:41:00.001+09:00

'Tis the season for kimjang (김 장)! Ask people worldwide what comes to mind when they consider Korea and you're likely to hear "kimchi", the famous side dish of spicy, fermented cabbage with a powerful taste and a distinct smell, especially on your breath a few hours after you've eaten it! Kimjang is the centuries-long practice of making loads of kimchi to last through the winter. The custom has become less commonplace in modern times, as today's career women simply don't have time for the hours upon hours of washing, chopping, stuffing, and storing, and buying imported varieties in supermarkets is cheaper (and easier) than making the real deal. Still, many Korean homes are equipped with a refrigerator designed specifically to hold massive amounts of the accoutrement. Some families continue to store kimchi outside, buried underground. Since the trademark dish is served with nearly every Korean meal, making enough to last a family three or four months is surly a daunting task. My "Worldwide Friendship" co-host, Haewon Yoon, recently toiled with a group of friends for two days, turning 200 cabbages into kimchi. She was nice enough to take my camera along to capture the event.

This is how it all begins. Haewon and friends used about 200 cabbages for this year's kimjang. The entire process takes about one week. Day 1 is spent washing the cabbages, preparing other ingredients, and soaking the cabbages in salt water.

Just a few of the many tubs of ingredients.

Haewon, middle, and friends, preparing cabbages, radishes, and onions for kimjang.

The cabbages are halved and soak in salt water overnight before being stuffed on Day 2. Kimjang can be great exercise; Haewon came into work bemoaning sore limbs after two days of throwing hundreds of cabbages around.

Here, Haewon is mixing up kkakdugi (깍 두 기), another popular side dish, made of cubed daikon radish, red pepper, garlic, onion, and spices.

On Day 2, many gloved hands stuff hundreds of cabbages with red pepper powder, fish sauce, minced ginger, garlic, and green onions to create the delicacy widely regarded as one of the world's healthiest foods. After the stuffing, the kimchi will be packed in plastic containers (or earthenware jars, traditionally) where it will ferment. It's ready to eat in about a week and stays good through the winter. In fact, many people prefer aged kimchi over the freshly-made.

Over 2,000 volunteers came together outside Seoul's City Hall last week to make 58,000 cabbages worth of kimchi to be donated to underprivileged families. (Photo courtesy JoongAng Daily)

The CSAT stresses everyone out!

2008-11-14T15:34:00.008+09:00

From The Korea Times. A student is rushed by police escort to a testing site.

This Thursday marked one of the biggest, and most high-stress, annual events in South Korea. About 590,000 high school students across the nation took the college entrance exam (College Scholastic Ability Test), which many believe will seal their fate when it comes to their future career prospects. As the Wall Street Journal notes, the exam is a "national obsession", and its impacts stretch far wider than the students who take it. State employees go to work an hour later to cut down on commuter congestion. Oversleepers are rushed to exam sites by police escort. Parents wring their hands with worry that their kids' performance may reflect poor nurturing. Around the time of last year's exam, I posted the following entry with my thoughts about this South Korean phenomenon:

National University Entrance Exam Day

From The Korea Times. Praying for good results.

November 11 is Pepero Day!

2008-11-11T16:35:00.001+09:00

The already ubiquitous sweet treat is even more visible today, with the gift of chocolately, crunchy cookie sticks being bestowed upon friends, lovers, and co-workers nationwide. Pepero (빼 빼 로) means "skinny like a stick", and while most Pepero varieties fit the bill, on this special day you can find gigantic examples no averge human could possibly consume on his or her own. Some reports suggest Lotte Confectionary, which manufactures Pepero, makes 55 percent of its annual earnings in November, thanks in large part to Pepero Day. Another newsy tidbit: many schools have restricted their students from Pepero Day celebrations, since the commercial holiday falls on the important national observance of Farmers Day. With bounds of Pepero covering my desk by 3:00, I'm wondering . . . is it kosher to re-gift Pepero?

One of our listeners impressed the English section by sending a huge box with various types of Pepero. Thanks, Steve!

When it comes to Pepero, the options are endless. They range from the inexpensive, but most popular varieties you can find in any convenience store, to more expensive varities available at bakeries. KBS World Spanish service chief, Sonia, poses with fancy Pepero.

I Voted!

2008-11-04T19:58:00.002+09:00

I was a little disappointed that there was no "I Voted" sticker in my absentee ballot packet. Like many Americans, I have become completely immersed in the excitement of this year's election. On one hand, it's a bummer to be half-way around the world as my fellow Americans head to the polls on Election Day. On the other hand, it's been very interesting to live in a foreign country during a historic campaign that comes at a tumultuous time for the entire world.

I've done some very unscientific polling, and concluded that Koreans' opinions about the U.S. election are just as diverse as the U.S. itself. Many Koreans tell me they like Barack Obama, but believe John McCain will win. Most say conservative U.S. policy better serves Korea. Some have blatantly said, "I like Obama, but . . . he's black," while others have intimated that the Illinois senator's good looks should be reason enough to vote for him. McCain's P.O.W. experience pulls at some heartstrings, but some have said he's just too old. And I've been humbled by a few who have said, "I'm not American. I don't care."

Since the results will pour in during my Wednesday morning, I'm looking forward to observing the atmosphere around KBS. I may be the only one riding an emotional roller coaster tomorrow, alternately shrieking with joy and anxiously wringing my hands, but there's no doubt many are looking forward to seeing how America votes.

Hiking Dobong Mountain (도 봉 산)

2008-11-03T17:50:00.002+09:00

Hiking is one of Koreans' favorite pastimes, and autumn is the best time of year to catch breathtaking views and comfortable temperatures. Matt Kelley and I headed north to Dobongsan on Sunday to join the crowds for a fun and beautiful hike. We left Seoul around 6am and took the subway (Line 1) to Dobongsan Station. We marveled at opportunity to access an area so starkly different from Seoul by subway in just an hour.

Matt snags a shot of one of Dobongsan's peaks on our way up.

The top! Check out the guy just casually perched on a rock, with death just a slip away! Somehow, I always forget that I'm terrified of heights until I find myself hundreds of meters above sea level with a line of hikers behind me, waiting as I muster the courage for the next death-defying step. Thankfully, Matt was a calming coach.

View from the top (my demeanor was not quite so casual). That's Mt. Bukhan in the distance.

Hanging on for dear life along the ridge line while begrudgingly cooperating for a photo

Descending is more my style

We found these chilies out to dry near a Buddhist temple

Seoul through the trees

Look close for the truly crazy . . . at least they're attached to a rope!

Soju in juice boxes!

2008-10-24T11:38:00.001+09:00

I was almost a year into my Korean tenure when I finally discovered a handy dandy innovation that ensures no situation must ever be void of Korea's signature distilled spirit: Soju "juice boxes". Designed to make soju-on-the-go a logistical breeze, the clever packaging means Koreans (or anyone else) heading abroad can tote their revered beverage without concern that reckless baggage handlers will leave their suitcase full of broken green glass and clothes reeking of alcohol. Since the price of soju in foreign countries is often six times higher than the domestic rate, it pays to buy it here and enjoy it there. But of course this nifty option isn't reserved for practical travelers. Since my initial discovery of soju boxes at Costco, I've seen a few people around Seoul actually sipping from the cardboard containers a la Hi-C style.

Chris and I discovered soju boxes during a trip to Costco.

Trip to China

2008-10-14T10:24:00.006+09:00

I'm back in Seoul this week after a great trip to China. I spent most of my time in Shanghai, but also visited Hangzhou, a tourist haven about two hours south of Shanghai. I'll post more photos and reaction later, but wanted to share some videos right away.

I took this video in a section of Shanghai referred to as "Old Town" or "Old City". These lively areas where working class people can be seen hustling and bustling around the clock are always my favorite parts of big cities.

I was amazed by the prevalence of bicycles, mopeds, and motorcycles in China. I had never actually seen a moped in person before. Cyclists have their own lane on most roads and even designated signal lights. Here's a shot from an intersection along Shanghai's famous Nanjing Road.

Students at Shanghai's Yew Chung International School singing "I'm a Believer". Yew Chung's student body includes kids from nearly 70 different countries.

Eye to eye with "Jeff from Maryland"

2008-10-13T17:20:00.003+09:00

I cohost a KBS listener feedback program called Worldwide Friendship every Saturday. Nearly every week, we share an e-mail sent by loyal listener "Jeff from Baltimore, Maryland, U.S.A.". Last week, we got to meet Jeff in the flesh! Jeff and his wife, Cindy, and their son, Nathan, came to Korea to adopt a baby girl. Nathan was also born in Korea and was making his first trip back since Jeff and Cindy adopted him. Haewon and I had the opportunity to interview Jeff for Worldwide Friendship, then joined his family for an entertaining lunch near KBS. Nathan and I talked extensively about trains--at the ripe age of three, he's already much more knowledgable than I am. His passion for locomotives reminded me of my best friend, Chris, another "train enthusiast".

Jeff, Cindy, and Nathan with Jeff's mother and stepfather in a KBS World studio

Nathan and I became fast friends over an Italian lunch.

"Do you know? Dokdo belongs to Korea" (Does it?!)

2008-09-24T10:38:00.023+09:00

A few months ago my brother and I were having a discussion about Asian politics, particularly Korean and Japanese issues, since I live in Seoul and he's lived in Japan for nearly ten years. I made reference to Dokdo (독 도), a group of rocky islets inhabited by just a handful of people in the waters between Korea and Japan. Ownership over the outcroppings has been heavily disputed for centuries. Josh had no idea what I was talking about when I said, "Dokdo." He said, "You mean 'Takeshima'?" Had another person been involved in the conversation, it could have become even more convoluted. Dokdo is also known as Takshima, the Liancourt Rocks, and the Hornet Islands, depending on who you're talking to. As the conversation progressed I realized we were each speaking about the controversial islets from the perspective of our resident countries. I used "Dokdo" and "East Sea", while Josh used "Takeshima" and "Sea of Japan". Furthermore, even as a foreigner with no stake in the issue, I found myself getting defensive of the Korean perspective, railing against Japanese imperialism and historic colonization.

This dispute between two rural Illinois siblings is ironically indicative of the larger picture. Korea claims absolute sovereignty over Dokdo, while Japan has repeatedly claimed over the years that Takeshima is Japanese territory. The controversy spikes every so often and most recently when Japan suggested it would claim territorial rights over the islets in upcoming school textbooks. Meanwhile, the United States didn't make things easier for Korea when its Board on Geographic Names categorized the islets as having "undesignated sovereignty". The BGN's designations are used as the U.S. federal government's standard. Although I found myself arguing like a Korean would with my brother, my outsider perspective actually tells me the BGN's classification makes perfect sense. Although it makes a thorny issue even more complex, the U.S. has been calling the islets the Liancourt Rocks since 1977 so as to stay out of the Korea-Japan dispute. Yet it officially recognized the islets as South Korean territory prior to the "undesignated sovereignty" debacle. So with Japan making refreshed claims to Dokdo at the same time the U.S. naming agency delivered a diplomatic slap in the face, it's no wonder Koreans were a little perturbed. Although the BGN name change was based on a decision made some time ago, the untimely release felt to Koreans like a U.S. vote in favor of Japan. Perhaps because this incident came on the heels of very spirited demonstrations against U.S. beef imports and amidst the Korea-U.S. Free Trade Agreement impasse, the Bush administration quickly instructed the BGN to re-designate the Liancourt Rocks as Korean territory on its website.

"DO YOU KNOW? DOKDO BELONGS TO KOREA"

Arguing back and forth with Japan, even through the highest diplomatic channels, seems to rarely bear substantial results for Korea. Several admonishments of Japan's claims by South Korean President Lee Myung-bak have done little to temper the issue. So when Korea's favorite phrase stating that Dokdo is "clearly Korean land historically, geographically, and by international law" (I can't count the number of times I've broadcast those exact words to an international audience) fell on deaf ears in Japan, Korea's strategy turned to convincing the rest of the world that Dokdo is, in fact, Korean territory. Nevermind that most people outside Korea have never even heard of Dokdo or care who owns it. Regardless of what the islets are called on a map, they're barely even visible without a magnifying glass.

"Dokdo Love"

Of course the waters around Dokdo, and the sea life in them, are what's really at stake. Koreans seem unanimous in their belief that sovereignty over Dokdo is theirs, and the t-shirts with awkward claims in English point to the country's hope that the rest of the world can be convinced of the same.

Heart attacks for sale, but Mad Cow-safe

2008-09-22T12:40:00.006+09:00

America's most internationally familiar food chain is exercising damage control in light of Koreans' apprehension of U.S. beef. As though McDonald's customers were pillars of healthy consumption, the company is assuring everyone that its burgers are made strictly with Australian beef. (Personally, I've never dared to guess from where the "mystery meat" used in McDonald's products comes, regardless of where its sold.)

After months of intense public backlash against the government's decision to reopen the Korean market to U.S. beef, many restaurants have been pushing the non-American beef-ness of their products, but I find myself irritated by these signs posted at an American fast food icon. McDonald's should be using its power to advertise the quality of American products and help repair the tattered image of U.S. beef, rather than playing into unfounded rumors and irrational fears. Perhaps coming from farm country U.S.A., I'm too slow to scrutinize American farm products, but I've certainly never worried about the safety of beef purchased in the States. I have, on the other hand, winced when considering the amount of fat and cholesterol in an order of McDonald's french fries. That's what Koreans oughtta be worried about.

Shopping for traditional Korean clothing (hanbok)

2008-09-18T17:43:00.001+09:00

Koreans and Japanese spend plenty of time pointing out their differences, but when it comes to traditional clothing, or at least what they call traditional clothing, both cultures keep it very simple. The Japanese have the kimono, which literally means "thing to wear". In Korea, the typically bright, flowing traditional attire is called hanbok, or "Korean clothing". Several weeks ahead of Chuseok, Korea's annual harvest festival, big box retailers and department stores started stocking racks and racks of low-priced hanbok. These days, it's mostly kids who wear hanbok for holidays, but newlyweds also wear the attire during the first major holiday after their wedding. I also noticed several elderly folks donning the traditional garb last weekend. I recently accompanied Sophia on a mission to purchase a hanbok for a four year-old American boy. For a variety of options and high quality, we headed to a group of hanbok stores in Yeongdeungpo.

One of the shop owners told us a high quality hanbok for adults averages $700. Most Korean couples wear hanbok for the traditional portion of their wedding ceremony.

I made the mistake of telling Sophia I didn't think an American boy would be too enthusiastic about pink pants, although Korean men are more than comfortable wearing hanbok in bright pastels. She clearly wasn't thrilled about my suggestion of this option due to its more masculine colors.

Sophia at the height of frustration. We eventually agreed on some bright blue pants.

Traditional food among traditional textiles

Chuseok: Korean Thanksgiving

2008-09-15T22:48:00.002+09:00

One of Korea's biggest two holidays created an eerily quiet, yet pleasant atmosphere around Seoul last weekend. Chuseok (추 석) is Korea's Thanksgiving, a harvest festival celebrated every year on the fifteenth day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar, or September 14th this year according to the Gregorian calendar. Nearly everyone in the country gets vacation on Chuseok, as well as one day off before and after the holiday. Like American Thanksgiving, Chuseok is a time for food and family, but Korea's holiday includes rituals honoring ancestors. Most Koreans head to their hometowns (wives usually go to their husband's) where they visit the family burial site and make edible offerings to deceased loved ones. Festivities begin early in the morning with a massive feast, followed by ancestral rites and then quality time with family. One Chuseok hostess told me her family spent over $1,000 (1,000,000 Korean 원) on beef, pork, and all the trimmings to feed her family of nine.

Songpyeon. Like candy canes to Christmas, these crescent-shaped rice cakes stuffed with bean or sesame seed paste are a staple Chuseok treat. The security guard at my apartment building surprised me Saturday with this offering.

For a foreigner like me, Chuseok offers a great opportunity to wander the city without the typical hustle and bustle and pushing and shoving. No craning your neck to spot the one open seat on the subway. No armpits in your face on the bus. The Korea Expressway Corporation estimated nearly 400,000 vehicles full of holiday travelers would be returning to Seoul Monday alone, which means the city's population must have slimmed by millions over the weekend. Many businesses were closed Friday through Monday. Most of Korea's ubiquitous 김 밥 천 국 restaurants, typically open around the clock, closed their doors for three days straight. I hate to admit that Mickey D's saved me from starvation on Friday night.

It's amazing how much I crave kimbap when I can't have it! Most Kimbap Cheonguks were closed for three days straight.

I anticipate there will be plenty of exhausted ladies around the office tomorrow. Korean women frequently bemoan the holidays, since the brunt of cooking and cleaning falls upon female shoulders. Women who happen to be married to a family's eldest son have it the worst, since they usually end up hosting the rest of the family. Several media reports leading up to the holiday offered women tips on how to weather the stress of the festivities. The good news this year is that since the holiday fell on Sunday, there were just three days of official holiday recognition. When Chuseok is on a Tuesday or Thursday, it means nothing but cooking and cleaning for many women for five days straight.

Great photos of Gwangmyeong City (and beyond)

2008-09-10T10:35:00.006+09:00

I recently stumbled upon a blog site with some great photos of Gwangmyeong City, the small bedroom community where KBS World houses its foreign staff members. Most of these shots are in the central part of the city, but everything seen is within a five minute taxi ride of my apartment on the Seoul border.

http://www.daehanmindecline.com/digital/20080802b.html

I got in contact with Jon Dunbar, the photographer, and secured permission to link to his site. I spent quite a bit of time looking through is photos from around Seoul and am feeling very inspired to get out and capture more thought-provoking scenes myself.

Seedy Seoul

2008-09-06T13:01:00.012+09:00

The commute between my apartment and KBS takes me through an area that epitomizes the term "gritty", a common adjective used to describe areas throughout Seoul. It looks like a contractor's mecca, with long rows of merchants selling all the pieces that make up Seoul's infrastructure. It's dirty. It's underwhelming. The only thing that's impressive is the sheer number of businesses that look to be peddling the exact same things. But during one post-sunset trip through the district, I noticed something different about Yeongdeungpo. With the rusted steel garage doors pulled down like sleep shades over the facades of all these blue collar businesses, a different kind of industry was starting its work day.

Standing in front of every third or fourth garage door was a nicely (in that trampy kind of nice way) dressed woman, casually watching traffic go by and in no particular hurry to get anywhere. Some women sat on short, plastic stools tucked in doorways or alleys. Now, if this area were the kind of place where you might enjoy a nice evening outdoors, loitering with a beverage and checking out the scenery, I wouldn't have been suspect. But it was immediately clear that these women were somehow involved in South Korea's illegal, yet highly lucrative (to the tune of $20+ billion/year), prostitution industry. Some civic organizations say the number of women working in the sex industry in South Korea outnumbers the amount of school teachers. The government recognizes the prevalence, but its estimates of the number involved are much less startling.

After a Saturday evening shift at KBS a few weeks ago I finally made good on a promise I made to myself to get over to Yeongdeungpo to play paparazzi among the prostitutes. With no other plans at 11:00 on a Saturday night, it was like a stroke of luck that I happened to be traversing through the area on a pleasant, late summer evening. I got off the bus at a busy public transportation hub about a block north of the "working class district" and began working my way toward my subjects. The music faded and the lights dimmed as the surroundings became less gentrified and more, well, gritty. Saturday night traffic continued to roar by and I tried to disguise my actual mission by taking pictures of cars zooming by, strategically snagging street girls in the corner of the frame.

I worked my way to a group of establishments whose purpose is unmistakable to locals or anyone who has spent any significant amount of time in Korea. They usually come one after another along an entire city block or two and have glass fronts lined in pink neon lights. Typically, a scantily clad, uncharacteristically busty Asian woman will be sitting on a tall stool behind the glass brushing her hair or otherwise primping. Sometimes the women will hang out in the doorways, leaning forward and glancing up and down the street, or chatting with the next door tenant. The largest group of these houses of ill repute I've seen is near the American military base in Seoul, and I was a little surprised to find them in Yeongdeungpo. Surprised, yet very intrigued!

Emboldened by my luck on the main drag, I rounded a corner in pursuit of the pink light district and turned off my camera's flash. I quickly scanned the area and noticed just a few people around--an old woman selling beverages from a drink cart on the corner, a few middle-aged men and women lounging nearby. It didn't seem like anyone was really paying attention to me, which was actually quite surprising, so I casually approached the pink lights and snapped a photo. Still no reaction. Great! But just as my lens opened for the second shot, a man let out a ferocious yell and the women tending two side-by-side businesses quickly killed the pink lights and drew curtains across the glass.

What had moments earlier seemed like a lazy, quiet group of bystanders up on the corner, probably uninvolved in the pink light industry, now clearly revealed itself as protectors of the trade. The middle-aged crowd came to its feet and started approaching me with menacing expressions and quick, angry Korean grumbles. Even the old woman running the drink cart started a high-pitched tirade and shooed me away with sweeping motions. I quickly shoved my camera in my purse and played dumb. With two or three angry men quickly approaching, I turned and headed back toward the main street. A motor scooter roared up behind me and followed me all the way to the nearest bus stop. My heart was racing, and all I could think was, "I'm about to die. I'm about to end up dead, shoved in the trunk of a car." Yet I couldn't wait to check out my shots. Did any of them turn out? Will I have evidence of my thrilling adventure?

I've resigned to the fact that curiosity will likely kill the Abby someday. The next Saturday evening found me right back in gritty Yeongdeungpo, determined to get a lengthier and more revealing observation of the pink light district. This time I wanted to get a closer look at the women. Did they look Korean, or were they possibly victims of human trafficking? South Korea has made substantial efforts in the last several years to combat the illegal sex industry, particularly human trafficking, but its obvious it remains a problem. Many women are brought from Southeast Asia, Russia, or former Soviet states to work in the industry. (Incidentally, I've been asked about four times in the last month if I'm Russian.) I discovered Yeongdeungpo's prostitution enclave is much larger than I had realized, but unfortunately, my second self-assigned mission was just as lacking in factual content (and compelling photography) as the first. It seemed like prostitute photography was becoming my favorite Saturday evening pastime, but my curiosities are fickle. This week I started researching travel opportunities in North Korea. More on that later.

Soldiers, beware seduction!

2008-08-29T16:46:00.007+09:00

Princess Spy? Don't let the tiara fool you--beware the poison darts!

When a 34 year-old North Korean woman was indicted for espionage this week, a flurry of scintillating media reports covered the broadsides and evening news, dripping with the juicy twists and tawdry details of a cheap spy novel. The reportedly well-educated, and obviously good lookin', Won Jeong-hwa came to the South to gather military secrets from loose-lipped officers. Despite the entertainment factor, not to mention the national security risk, I had all but decided not to blog about Won's exploits . . . until I read the following lead in a Korea Times article

printed today:

Defense Minister Lee Sang-hee pledged Thursday to implement measures to prevent soldiers from being seduced by North Korean spies.

Wow, can I get in on the training? Sounds like a blast! When this story broke a couple days ago, I teased the men in our news department, "If North Korea is smart, it'll recuit only female spies. Men can't help it. They crumble at the hands of women." One South Korean officer who fell prey to Won's feminine wiles says he discovered her identity but didn't turn her in because he loved her. How sweet.

In addition to her trysts with uniformed men, she apparently duped a regular ole South Korean Joe into marrying her in 2001. "Joe" claims to have had no knowledge of his wife's double life. As it turns out, Ms. Won was actually a double agent, swapping secrets on both sides of the border. Prior to this gig, she was working for the North Korean government in China where she was responsible for rounding up North Korean defectors to be repatriated--and likely killed.

Some of the all too entertaining details of this story include poison darts (for taking down South Korean big wigs), matchmaking services, and now anti-seduction training! There's never a dull day in Korea.

Muddy butt exploration

2008-08-21T19:48:00.001+09:00

A sense of adventure and a hankering for some exercise took Matt and me on a three-hour bike jaunt along Seoul's Han River last Saturday. The spotty rain didn't make for ideal biking conditions (note my muddy butt below!), but the overcast skies were certainly a welcome break from the sweltering heat Seoul has weathered in the last few weeks. We rented bikes from Yeouido Park (directly across from our KBS office) and headed west along the Han. Matt was keen to show me the islet of Seonyudo, a pleasant fusion of industry and green space, which he calls one of his favorite spots in the capital city. Seonyudo is home to a former water treatment facility which was reborn as a post-modern ecological park in the early part of the decade.

Thanks, Seoul Metropolitan Government, for this aerial shot of Seonyudo.

Infrastructure from the facility was incorporated into the design, as well as a museum where Korean speakers can learn all kinds of fun facts about the ecology of the Hangang (I just enjoyed the pictures and flashing lights!). The park's combination of steely hardware, water, and lush landscaping makes for a surprisingly appealing aesthetic experience.

The "Rainbow Bridge" links Seonyudo to the south bank of the Han River. Lights along the bridge's arc create a lovely scene at night.

The pink ponchos brighted an otherwise dreary day.

Matt was lucky to be wearing two shirts. I, on the other hand, shocked fellow public transport users on my way home (see below). I'm used to drawing all kinds of inquisitive staring, but a friendly smile (my typical modus operandi) didn't seem to pacify the befuddlement last Saturday.

Rooting for the other red, white, and blue (and black)

2008-08-11T12:27:00.001+09:00

As Olympic fever sweeps the world, I'm finding myself more caught up in the nail-biting excitement than ever. Never much of a sports fan, and rarely inclined to follow summer Olympics when I could be out playing in the garden hose, I'm discovering the thrill of the event and developing a creepy crush on South Korean swimming phenom Park Tae-hwan (a.k.a. "Marine Boy"). Park made history over the weekend, snagging SoKo's first Olympic medal (and a shiny gold at that!) in a swimming event. The 400-meter men's freestyle event has been dominated by beefy Westerners for decades, so it was a milestone for Asian swimmers, as well as a personal triumph for the 18 year-old (19, Korean age) cutie pie who was disqualified for a false-start in the 2004 Athens Games. It's been 72 years since an Asian won gold in a men's freestyle event.

"Abby has a crush on me?! YES!" --Park Tae-hwan after winning the 400-meter men's freestyle

For Korea's athletes, Sunday was a day for history-making and record-breaking. The country's women archers strike fear in competitors worldwide, dominating the sport since 1984 and winning gold in the team event every year since its 1988 inauguration. This year marks the sixth straight gold for the women's team. I'd say that kind of accomplishment is well worth the possibly permanent mark of the bow string on leader Park Sung-hyun's chin. Below, the ladies pose for a team shot at Seoul's Olympic training center about a month ago. Those chestguards are SO Korean!

If Park Tae-hwan is my man crush, 22 year-old weightlifter Yoon Jin-hee takes the gold in the category of girl crush. This li'l powerhouse walked away with a silver medal in the women's 53-kilogram weightlifting event Sunday. She hoisted a impressive total of 213 kilograms. So what if her moppy 'do makes her look a little ajumma (older, married woman). I like her! This event proved there's nothing like the Olympics to test my pronunciation skills, and I'm pretty sure I scored a fat "F" during Sunday's final broadcast. Thailand's Jaroenrattanatarakoon Prapawadee took the gold in this event and there's no reporting on a silver without mentioning the gold. Sorry, Jaroenrattanatarakoon! Below, you see my girl crush, Yoon Jin-hee, showin' her stuff.

South Korea's first gold this year came from 28 year-old judoka Choi Min-ho who flipped his opponents around like flapjacks Saturday evening. This appears to be another fairy tale ending. But why did I crack up reading the following report from the Chosun Daily:

"Suffering from the physical side effects of lowering his weight by 6 kg at the Athens Olympics, Choi won only a bronze medal due to muscle cramp in his leg. He turned to the bottle after returning to Korea, to help him cope with his feeling of loneliness and isolation.And he was so stressed out that he had to eat 40 to 50 ice cream bars a day in order to go to sleep at night."

Okay, I know why. It's that line about the ice cream bars! 40-50?!?! Surely there's been a mistake in the Korean-to-English translation . . . or maybe they were low-fat ice cream bars. Everyone knows low-fat just means you can eat more! All joking aside, congrats to Choi and SoKo, alike! Below, it appears the fit and trim Choi has overcome his nightly ice cream bar cravings.

Like elections, the Olympics mean long hours at the office for us broadcasters, but the outpouring of national pride, roller coaster of emotions, and free cup ramen provided by KBS are worth the missed sleep and leisure time. Oh, and I should probably include, "Go U.S.A.!"

Seoul he-shes

2008-08-06T10:44:00.007+09:00

For Koreans who don't believe homosexuals exist within their own race (and there are many who feel this way), the thought of homegrown transvestites is probably unimaginable. But, boy, have I got news for you! Last weekend I found myself on the infamous "homo hill" in Seoul's expat/U.S. military/English teacher haven of Itaewon. Homo hill is just a stone's throw from "hooker hill", for anyone looking for a point of reference. Here are some shots from a fun, zany show at "Trance". I've only included photos of the "women" whose bodies didn't make me jealous, because believe me, if there's anything worse than feeling like Two-ton Tess among all the thin, Asian chicks, it's being shown up by a man!

Reflecting

2008-08-04T09:09:00.017+09:00

It's been a week since my return to Seoul and that seems sufficient time to reflect on the impact of my first trip home since my move abroad. Before heading back to the American Midwest, I wondered how my exposure to home would affect my attitude toward my home away from home, Seoul. Would I become homesick for my country, my family and friends, and a simpler day-to-day life? Would I appreciate Seoul even more upon my return? How would my rural Illinois homeland look after ten months of separation?

Not that different, actually! Grampa John and me at a big Rhodes family party. Look at the beautiful Illinois corn!

The last question is probably the easiest to answer. After a grueling flight itinerary that sent me to Atlanta from Seoul, then back to a regional airport in west central Illinois, my attitude was less than rosy and my patience was paper thin when I finally deplaned. My stint in Atlanta was particularly disappointing, as the most unwelcoming of airport staff barked at my fellow travelers and me as we snaked our way through the lines in customs. "Move it, people, move it. Pay attention. Let's go." No smiles. No eye contact. Certainly no bows of courtesy or gentle, guiding hand gestures that Korean airport personnel have perfected. It looked, and felt, bad. I'll blame my travel-weary disposition for that evening's fixation on the undesirable aspects of American culture: mind-boggling obesity; loud, obnoxious cell phone usage; utter lack of customer service. On the other hand, I relished in the retrieval of personal space. People said, "Excuse me," before and after bumping into me, and even if they hadn't bumped into me at all! That's when I realized I had probably been throwing elbows and stepping on toes with reckless abandon (which is a-okay in Seoul), and I should probably adjust my behavior Stateside. And though it seemed nearly every American around me was overweight, I can't deny heading straight for a big burrito as soon as I touched ground in Atlanta. Night had fallen by the time I arrived in Moline, Illinois where my friend Chris joined me for the last 1.5 hour leg of my journey home. This is when I experienced the starkest visual difference between home and home. The highway was so . . . wide. The buildings so low. The countryside so incredibly dark. The vista so expansive, even under the blanket of night. "Has it always been this dark?" I asked Chris. He confirmed that nothing had changed; surpise, surprise. And as I reacquainted myself with central Illinois in the next week, it seemed exactly the same as I had left it. Unlike my neighborhood in Korea where pharmacies are transformed into eateries in a weekend's time, my American hometown seems like a place where time stands still. A case in point: A new coffee shop opened in town just before I left last September and boasted, "Now open!" on its signboard, along with a short list of menu items. Just two weeks ago, ten months later, the sign hadn't changed, although a few letters were missing. I guess it's still open, and still selling paninis. Walking into another coffee shop to meet friends Jim and Dick looked and felt exactly the way it did a year ago when I would stop in every morning for a cup of joe before work. The same guy working behind the counter, friend Eric, and the same patrons lazily flipping through newspapers, diligently working on laptops, and engaging in casual conversation.

Coffee date with friends Dick and Jim

Thankfully, there was also a lack of change among my friends and family. Almost a year away from home hasn't affected my closest relationships, and it was so heartwarming to pick up right where I left off with my loved ones. Living on opposite sides of the world has actually meant increased contact with some of my friends and fam. Through blogging, e-mails, and phone calls (thanks Clarissa, for the Internet phone!), I've been able to keep in touch on a regular basis and in some cases, more frequently than when I was living in Illinois. It makes me wonder how different expat life must have been before technology allowed such constant, immediate communication.

With grad school friend and international travel buddy, Clarissa

A big family party, a day trip to my alma mater, and a childhood friend's wedding allowed me to reunite with people from all periods of my life. Sharing my Korean experiences made me again realize how fortunate I am to have the opportunity to work and live in a foreign country.

University of Illinois journalism faculty Nancy Benson, Mitch Kazel, and John Paul

Several people asked about the difficult parts of living abroad. It's not the food, I told them. Not the language barrier. Certainly not my job at KBS. Although computers and phones and mail delivery systems make it easy to stay "in touch", it's the actual touch with loved ones, the eye contact during a conversation with a friend, and the close proximity of my strong support system that I miss the most.

Bride Liz and bridesmaid Abby

Weekday lunch with Dad and Grandpa, power walks with mom, and hugs from long-time friends are simple things Seoul's city lights and delicious food can't match. Still, as each month in Korea goes by, I feel more and more at home and I realize that, overall, I'm much more fulfilled here than I was back in rural Illinois. My local support system is getting stronger, and I now think of Macomb, IL as a warm, comforting place to visit.

My mom holds her new Korean vase

It'll always feel like home because of the people who live there and the memories it holds, but will probably never really be home again. It's a thrilling concept in one respect, considering all the possibilities of where my next home could be, but also a melancholy realization that my exposure to the place holding such personal history could be limited to one week a year. Letting go of the steadfast security of my hometown, where signboards don't change in a year's time and I'm likely to run into childhood friends at the grocery store is as scary as it is exciting.

Home, sweet home . . . away from home

2008-07-30T11:13:00.001+09:00

This child of the corn has returned to Seoul after a week's worth of Midwestern hospitality, fatty American food, open roads, and lots of love from family and friends. I'll write later about my impressions of home, ten months removed, but for now I'm happy to report my return to Korea and KBS. My two homes couldn't be more different, but I love them both! Take a look at the dichotomy and tell me if you'd be culture shocked!

My home in rural Illinois

My apartment complex in Gwangmyeong City (near Seoul)

A highway near my home in Illinois

A busy Seoul street (Namdaemun)

Dinner with my Mom, sister-in-law Yoko, and brother Josh in Illinois

Korean BBQ in central Seoul with Yoko, Josh, and friend Jessica

Squatters

2008-07-16T10:54:00.000+09:00

Koreans have some good knees. I'm always amazed at how easily--and frequently--Koreans choose a squat for leisurely rest. It seems they can hold the position for indefinite periods of time, too. If I squat for more than two minutes, the look on my face is far from the content, relaxed demeanor of the nimble Koreans around me. And as you'll see in the photos, age appears to have no bearing on squatting ability or endurance. I'm truly in awe.

Squatting in Gangneung, Gangwondo

Squatting on the sidelines of a protest in Yeouido, Seoul

Squat while you work in Gangneung, Gangwondo

Squatting at Seoraksan National Park

Squatting on a mountain

UI journies in Seoul

2008-07-11T09:29:00.001+09:00

My school spirit was in high swing yesterday when I received a visit from another fellow Illini. Jenny Lee, a Korea native and senior at the University of Illinois, came to KBS Thursday to check out the life and times of a KBS World Radio staffer. Jenny is going through the same program I completed at U of I and was connected to me through one of our professors.

Jenny spent the afternoon with me at work and then took KBS editor/anchor Luke and me out for Korean barbecue.

Luke and I wowed Jenny with our voracious American appetites! Jenny and I wowed Luke with our Midwestern loquaciousness . . . "You Illinois girls can talk!"

Discovering Korea with Matt Kelley!

2008-07-09T17:28:00.003+09:00

My friend and KBS co-host, Matt Kelley, recently started writing and hosting a KBS World Radio program called Discovering Korea, a great excuse to travel the peninsula seeking interesting sights, tasty foods, and priceless moments. Last weekend I tagged along with my intrepid friend for an east coast excursion. Matt and I, along with friend Hoon, headed to the northeastern province of Gangwon where we enjoyed magnificent views and some steep climbs at Korea's most famous mountain, Seoraksan, and hot-n-sunny weather on Sokcho and Gyeongpo beaches. Although Korea's in the midst of monsoon season, the weather was perfect for our outdoorsy activities. Temperatures were on the brutal side of hot, but we found respite in mountain streams and cool ocean waters. Check out the KBS website for Matt's upcoming reports of our journey.

Matt and Abby at Gwongeumseong Fortress, Seoraksan National Park

Gwongeumseong Fortress, Seoraksan Natoinal Park

Seoraksan National Park

Biseondae's cool waters and granite platform offer a refreshing and relaxing break from mountain trekking

Hoon and Abby cooling off in the waters of Biseondae

Half-way up a strenuous climb to Geumgang cave. Hoon's face is priceless.

View down from Geumgang cave, Seoraksan National Park

Sinheungsa Buddhist temple, Seoraksan National Park

Korean temples are known for the bright, intricate painting under the eaves

For about $10 you can sign a tile that will be used for temple roofs

Sokcho Beach, Sokcho

Yummy seafood BBQ in Seorak

Sunrise seen from Naksan Temple, Yangyang

"Sky is the Limit" observatory in Yangyang

Abby and Matt on the "Sky is the Limit" observatory in Yangyang

Barbed wire lines much of the east coast, protecting South Korea from North Korean spies

Gyeongpo Beach from our speedy boat ride (forgive the poor photo quality!)

After our exhilarating boat ride along Gyeongpo Beach

Delicious dakgalbi (spicy chicken, veggies, and rice cake) in Gangneung. Our aprons said, "Country Cats". In my case, it's not far from the truth.

Ah, this is jangma

2008-07-03T17:51:00.001+09:00

I was starting to think jangma (장 마), the monsoon season, was a national illusion. During this alleged deluge, Korea is said to receive fifty percent of its annual rainfall in a span of 30-40 days. Although I'd been warned weeks ago that Seoul would be gray and soggy for several weeks straight, the onset of official jangma saw bright, sunny skies, pleasantly warm temperatures, and not a raindrop in sight. The sun worshiper in me was bracing for Seasonal Affective Disorder, which I've self-diagnosed, and was administering mental pep talks to encourage cheeriness despite the weather. I staged umbrellas at home, at the office, and inside my handbag so as not to be caught off-guard by Mother Nature. Still, a week or so into jangma, no rain. Just when I thought I was experiencing a fortuitous anomaly--a Korea summer with no jangma--the skies opened up and my beloved sun tucked behind the clouds for two straight days. Yet, as I write this, the sun is making a ephemeral appearance between bouts of the wet stuff. My Arabic service counterpart, Yossry, and I can only surmise that it's Mother Nature's way of pleasing both of us. He loves rain and I wish it would just go away!

Umbrellas line the hallways of KBS

A marvelous invention, if you ask me. Plastic bags for your rain-soaked umbrellas.

Interview with Illinois Farm Bureau

2008-06-25T11:06:00.002+09:00

I recently gave a radio interview with the Illinois Farm Bureau about the recent U.S beef import debacle. I spoke with Josh St. Peters, a former classmate of mine from the University of Illinois, and currently the Farm Information Director for RFD. The piece was made available to nearly 90 radio stations across the state who carry IFB programming.

Copy and paste the web address below into your Internet browser. A podcast of the entire "RFD Today" show from June 11 will appear. My interview starts about half-way through the show.

http://www.stretchinternet.com/rfd/podcasts/rfd-080611-b.mp3

Inspiration

2008-06-25T09:50:00.004+09:00

Seoul probably won't win any awards (anytime soon) for stunning architecture or breathtaking civic design, but inspiration can often be found in written messages posted in obscure places. One of my favorites lately is a motivational ditty in English adorning Yeouido's 63 Building. I see the message, "Love your life. Love your dream," almost every time I traverse over the Han River and during jogs around the city. English phrases found around Korea often come off as ambiguous, humorous translations of Korean sayings. I've never heard, "Love your dream," before, but whether the 63 Building's uplifting slogan is intentional inspiration or accidental philosophy, I like it! What could be better than loving your life, and enjoying what you're striving for?

Zzz . . .

2008-06-25T09:41:00.002+09:00

I've decided Seoulites will sleep anywhere. Maybe it's due to their diligent work ethic, long nights in the soju tent, or obscene amounts of time studying English in private institutes, but whatever the reason, there seems to be an inordinate amount of daytime snoozing going on.

In the park

Against a stranger on the subway

In twos under a bridge

On the sidelines of a protest

In the office

Outside a busy sports arena

Down by the (Han) river

Perhaps you've also noticed the propensity for shoe removal during naps. I'm not sure whether it's an obligatory, civilized gesture or purely for comfort.

Protest du jour

2008-06-23T21:42:00.001+09:00

These days I don't have to travel far to play roving reporter. There are daily protests occurring right on my KBS doorstep. Today a group of elderly (and some quite dapper) gentlemen gathered to protest protesters' protests. Seriously. As you may have guessed from demographic stereotype, these men are conservatives (as is the current South Korean government) and are decrying the anti-government protests that have blanketed the country in the last two months. My favorite part of today's demonstration was when the old women who sell ice cream in Yeouido Park across the street relocated to the protest site, just in case the anti-anit-government activism incited the sweet tooth. Or maybe they were drawn by the expressive machismo of the old men!

The riot police show up

Rainy day protest

2008-06-18T15:45:00.002+09:00

Day two of the monsoon season (장 마) didn't deter protesters from gathering outside KBS to boisterously address the broadcaster's president, Jung Yun-joo. Propaganda calling for Jung to step down from his post has peppered the premises for months, but his critics have become more vocal in recent weeks. The protest frenzy brought on by daily demonstrations against U.S. beef imports seem to be inspiring anyone with a complaint about anything to take to the streets with bullhorns, poorly amplified music, and today, ponchos. I'm told some of the signs behind held by these demonstrators accuse KBS of promoting anti-American sentiment through its coverage of the candlelight vigils. It's difficult to see through this video, but riot police buses are parked bumper to bumper the length of the block and are blocking access to the main entrance of the building. Several of our freelancers who come and go through the day had trouble getting into the building.

Seoul: how do YOU say it?

2008-06-17T11:43:00.003+09:00

If you're a miguk like I am, chances are South Korea's capital rolls off your tongue sounding just like sole or soul. But actually, there should be no mistaking the city for the bottom of a shoe because, in Korean, Seoul is spoken in two syllables (서 울). The closest I can come to a phonetic Roman alphabet translation is "suh-ool", but even that probably won't come out just right if spoken by a non-native. Although the Korean word is two syllables, it still sounds like one when spoken by native speakers (at least, that's my impression), but it doesn't really sound like sole or soul.

My life here has offered a daily dose of humility as I stumble my way through pronunciations of Korean words and phrases. I suppose having my snafus broadcast around the world makes that slice of humble pie even bigger. I realized my pronunciation of Seoul wasn't quite right as soon as I started at KBS, which is why I'm proud to report a personal accomplishment that occurred yesterday. As I delivered my standard sign-off concluding my afternoon newscast ("And that's the news from the KBS World Radio news center in Seoul. I'm Abby Rhodes") and exited the studio, an approving Mr. Kim said, "I like your pronunciation of Seoul." At first I thought he meant "like" in the, "I find it really humorous that your pronunciation is so wretched" way, but Mr. Kim was actually offering a genuine compliment. This conversation was a far cry from one we had about eight months ago when I still pronounced the city's name with one syllable.

Mr. Kim: Actually, it's "Seh-ool" (but it still sounded like sole to me!)

Abby: Right. Seoul. (one syllable)

Mr. Kim: No. "Seh-ool".

Abby: Okay. Seoul. (still one syllable, still sounding like sole)

Mr. Kim: (gives up)

And if Seoul has given me this much trouble, just imagine what Koreans think when I rattle off the names of newsmakers and other major cities. I find solace in the fact that around here, I'm still called A-bee Ro-jew.

Is it just me . . .

2008-06-09T15:25:00.003+09:00

. . . or is this too close for comfort? During a recent late night subway ride through Seoul, I watched the guy on the right make pillows out of four different passengers. Each lucky passenger appeared to be a stranger to Mr. Sleepyhead. As I watched each scenario play out, I was more baffled by the response of the "pillows" than by the utter disregard for personal space coming from Mr. Sleepyhead. Several months ago I blogged about the lack of recognition, or at least respect, of personal space in Seoul. I suppose I've become accustomed to the pushing and shoving in the subway, random people touching my hair out of curiosity, and even retail store employees physically pulling me off the street and into their store to check out the merchandise. Some space invaders still catch me off-guard, though. Last weekend an elderly woman approached me from behind, slipped her hand under the sleeve of my t-shirt and roughly tugged on it to get my attention. She was asking for 1,000 won (about $1), but the audacity of her approach and the resulting torn hem in my t-shirt sleeve left me feeling irritated, and far from benevolent.

In some respects, I believe Korea's "touch culture" is refreshing. Men of all ages are comfortable embracing one another in public and walking down the street with arms slung over each others' shoulders. I've seen men my age mess with each others' hair on the subway. They aren't subject to the homophobic scorn and accusations they'd likely receive in Korea (although Korean society is certainly homophobic--it's just that "gays don't exist in Korea"--ha!). Perhaps I'm the old fuddy duddy, not willingly offering up my shoulder to random sleepyheads. Watching Mr. Sleepyhead on the subway Saturday night I wondered, "What would Abby do?" I'm fairly certainly I would have left my seat as soon as his head hit my body, even if it meant standing for the rest of my 30-minute ride. Am I the rude one?

Saengil Chukha haeyo, Sarah!

2008-06-09T13:59:00.001+09:00

Happy birthday to KBS World Radio English host and writer, Sarah Jun! The English team enjoyed a Vietnamese lunch in celebration of Sarah's special day, followed by a quick photo shoot outside KBS. (From left: Sarah Jun, Mr. Chae Hong-pyo, Abby Rhodes, and Sophia Hong)

Protest or family fun?

2008-06-05T10:12:00.004+09:00

I found the photo to the left on website of The Hankyoreh, an independent Korean newspaper. Shots like this only confirm my opinion that the recent vigils and protests in opposition of the U.S. beef import deal have become less and less about U.S. beef, and more about the thrill of complaining . . . about something, anything. Sure, many Koreans are upset, and rightfully so, that the government is acting more like a dictatorship than a democracy. The U.S. beef import deal did come up suddenly and it sure did look like Lee Myung-bak was bowing at the feet of U.S. interests. But as the protests get bigger, longer, and more vocal, the arguments against U.S. beef aren't getting any more convincing. Students are relishing the boycott of classes to protest issues many of them don't understand. Photos from rallies show kids thrilled to be playing with fire. Meanwhile, online scaremongering and baseless rumors about the safety of U.S. beef are inticing more people to jump on the bandwagon every day. I believe Koreans should be concerned about their health and absolutly should expect their government to serve in their best interests (and I really don't care if anyone eats U.S. beef), but the fad vigils aren't projecting an image of a well-informed public.

Aloha!

2008-05-25T06:57:00.010+09:00

Greetings from Kauai, Hawaii! My Dad and friends Chris and Clarissa have met me for a week of fun and sun.

Chris, one of my best friends since age 10, and me in Honolulu. That's Waikiki in the background

My Dad and me in Honolulu before our flight to Kauai

My home for the week!

Chris tests the water

Kauai has gorgeous plant life

Cocktail hour!

Tourist in my own country

2008-05-23T14:44:00.004+09:00

First stop, a greasy spoon for a juicy, American beefy hamburger!

Greetings from Los Angeles! I'm en route to Hawaii where I'll meet my Dad and two friends for a relaxing vacation. Had I gone straight from Seoul to Kauai, I'm not sure I would have experienced the culture shock that a one-day layover in the continental U.S. has imposed. In recent weeks I've wondered how my first steps on U.S. soil in eight months would feel, how the place might seem different, and what comforts of home I'd rush to enjoy. My actual experience in the last ten hours has been starkly different from anything I expected. I imagined I would notice more overweight people, catch myself saying, "kamsa hamnida," instead of, "thank you," and maybe even wishing I were home to stay. I certainly was not prepared to start missing Seoul almost as soon as I got here! Perhaps it's the rather dilapidated, suburban area of Culver City I'm staying in, filled with "things" but void of interesting culture and substance, that has me feeling melancholy.

Maybe it's because I feel like people are staring at me as if they know, "She's been living in Korea for eight months. She looks culture shocked." I realized I made an utter gaffe as I was standing in a busy intersection waiting to cross a major highway. I felt like everyone in the cars around me were staring at me, all looking down at my legs or feet. That's when I text messaged my friend Clarissa, "Oh, so knee-length electric blue leggings and short denim skirts aren't in style Stateside?!" She quickly shot back, "What the hell are you thinking?! You've been in Korea too long!" My outfit, chosen for its comfort and traveling practicality, wouldn't catch a second glance in Seoul, even around the office. Standing on that busy street corner, though, I realized, "I look like a prostitute!" And that's when I also started to sense something I haven't felt for eight months; fear, or at least apprehension, about the people around me. Seoul is a very safe place and although you can never be too careful, I've never felt threatened or fearful walking alone anywhere in the city. Passing by some odd-looking characters in Culver City, California, though, set my heart racing.

I'm anxious to head for Hawaii tomorrow where being surrounded by family and friends will surly bring me out of this tourist-in-my-own country funk. In the meantime, I'll drown my pensive despondence in American beef and other edible luxuries that explain why everyone standing in my hotel lobby today was at least ten pounds overweight. Ah, America!

Going to the chapel

2008-05-22T09:16:00.002+09:00

Many areas of Seoul offer a menagerie of architectural designs. The tall concrete apartment buildings are everywhere, of course, but tucked in between them it’s not uncommon to see humble brick structures, modern high-rises with glass facades, or even a gaudy imitation of a fairytale castle. It’s no surprise the random castle-looking ones have caught my eye. They’re wedding halls, and many of them are adorned with massive banners with photos of larger than life couples in Western wedding attire looking blissfully happy. Think titivated Las Vegas chapel nuzzled between city banks, Starbucks, and fitness centers. Some wedding halls are less flamboyant, but they’re also easy to miss among other nondescript structures. After noticing a wide variety of these establishments, I started to wonder how wedding culture in Korea differs from what I’ve experienced in the Western world. It’s obvious based on the advertisements that many Koreans are at least dressing like Westerners when they say, “I do,” but how did the wedding convention centers become the standard venue for matrimony? Unfortunately, I haven’t done the research necessary to answer that question, but I’d venture to guess the blending of cultural traditions, often calling for two weddings in one, has something to do with it. It takes a lot of work to pull off a fancy, Western-style wedding piggybacked by a detailed Korean ceremony, but in a convention center environment staffed with quick, efficient, walkie-talkie carrying wedding professionals, it runs like clockwork. Last weekend I had a chance to feed my curiosity when my KBS co-host, Matt, invited me as his guest to a wedding. The event took place in the affluent Seoul district of Gangnam, so the wedding convention hall looked more like a convention center and less like the fortresses of love that can be seen near my neighborhood. We arrived late, but probably only missed one of three or four walks down the aisle by the happy couple. The bride and groom were wearing Western wedding wear when we showed up, and we either missed the exchange of vows or there never was one. Rather than pews or seating you’d find in a church, the big, square room was set up like a reception hall with round tables for eight crowded with serving ware, bottles of various beverages, and Korean candies. Running down the center of the room was an aisle covered in white fabric and slightly elevated. As the bride and groom took one jaunt after another up and down the aisle, smoke machines and colored lights surrounded them and short snippets of popular love songs played back-to-back through the sound system. I confirmed later that the bride and groom specifically chose the Celine Dion number, a non-Beatles version of “All You Need is Love” and one other catchy, sappy tune. As the earnestly methodical wedding hall staff guided the couple through a series of ceremony musts—cutting the cake, pouring a champagne fountain, greeting guests—Matt pointed out that the entire system seemed set up to accommodate the corresponding photo shoot. As the bride and groom were ushered from the cake station to the champagne station to the arch of love, professional photographers and videographers were right there, capturing every Kodak moment this wedding factory cranked out. Wedding guests chomped away on a multi-course meal while the staff put the couple and their parents through the paces. Once the couple had shown off both their Western and traditional Korean outfits (hanbok) and personally greeted every guest (see picture above), the place cleared out and family and close friends (and me) joined the couple in a cozier room where they conducted Korean wedding rituals. Matt and I couldn’t help but comment to one another about how exhausting the whole process seemed, but once the Korean ritual photo shoot was over, around 7:00pm, it appeared the festivities were complete. From a Western perspective, I’d say the fast tempo of the event, coupled with the wedding factory feel, diminished the warm and fuzzy feelings most weddings leave illicit. That’s probably just my impression, however, and there were certainly many people there who seemed to be experiencing something along the spectrum of warm and fuzzy. Now I’m anxious to see what kind of celebration goes down in the castle-like structures. According to Matt, I just might see wedding hall employees dressed like circus stagehands, blowing confetti from the bells of trumpets as the newlywed couple exits the hall (description based on true events!).

The newlyweds (photo credit: Matt Kelley)

In traditional Korean hanbok

Matt and I pose with the proud mother of the groom

Two Illini at KBS!

2008-05-14T17:08:00.001+09:00

Fellow University of Illinois journalism alumna, Nicole Pegues, visited KBS today. Nicole is a graduate of UIUC's print journalism program ('04) and went on to receive a master's degree in magazine publishing from Northwestern University's Medill School of Jouranlism. I hadn't seen Nicole for several years, so her visit was a nice blast from the past. Although our paths didn't cross too often in college (she was a print journalism major, yours truly a broadcast student), the connection we share offered a surreal feeling as I showed her around KBS. Thanks for stopping by, Nicole!

Light a candle, ward off U.S. beef!

2008-05-07T12:56:00.009+09:00

Just before his meeting with President Bush at Camp David last month, South Korean President Lee Myung-bak announced his government's plan to re-open markets to U.S. beef imports by the end of May. The announcement has stirred intense controversy in Korea where many believe the president is acting recklessly with only U.S. interests in mind. The U.S. government has made the opening of the Korean market to U.S. beef a condition in ratifying the Korea-U.S. Free Trade Agreement. Korea and U.S. beef have had a rocky relationship for several years. Koreans, in general, are very concerned about mad cow disease, so a few confirmed cases in the States have them shying away from U.S. beef with the skepticism most Americans would have for dog soup. Mad cow disease and the human strain of the virus aside, many Koreans are also worried about the impact U.S. beef imports will have on farmers in this country. Not only will cattle farmers feel a pinch, but some say prices of domestic pork will drop, too, once cheaper U.S beef is available to consumers. The country is in the middle of a 20-day public feedback period regarding the issue and the public is certainly taking the opportunity to express its views. This week candlelight vigils have been the medium of protest, with well-attended events taking place across the nation. I stopped by one near KBS Tuesday evening where an estimated 10,000 demonstrators rallied peacefully.

Many media reports have mentioned the prevalence of middle and high school-aged kids showing up at the vigils. The kids say they're protesting the import of U.S. beef because if the markets are indeed fully opened, their school cafeterias will opt for cheaper American beef over the homegrown variety.

I wondered how well my white face would be received by the demonstrators, since some people have speculated that the controversy over beef imports has caused an anti-American sentiment among some Koreans. These two girls didn't seem anti-Abby, at least!

Korea has been one of the top three importers of U.S. beef in recent years (when beef import bans weren't in place due to fear of mad cow disease). I wonder if any of these 10,000 people knowingly contributed to that statistic.

Operation find a friend!

2008-05-07T12:52:00.002+09:00

Seven months into my Korean adventure I’m facing one of the harshest (from my perspective) realities of expatriate life: bidding farewell to other transient expats when our foreign journeys diverge. This week I escorted my good friend Jessica to Incheon International Airport where she departed Korea after a nearly five-year tenure as a Seoul sister.

As Jessica took off into the skies, heading ultimately for Canada where she will pursue a career in economic and community development, I felt like my own flight was commencing. Walking away from her after our last hug goodbye, I could practically hear the cheesy, upbeat, “You can do it!” music playing in my head as I imagined myself a butterfly emerging from a cocoon. Jessica showed me the ropes during my first seven months in this country and now I’m being set free to see how I do on my own.

The last couple weeks have been a frenzy of emotion, awaiting Jessica’s imminent departure and thinking about how much my routine will change one she’s gone. Watching a friend go has never been quite this difficult because there have always been other friends or family to turn to. It sounds pathetic, but I don’t really have other good friends in Korea. Part of that is my own fault; not taking the time amid a busy work schedule and other things I need and want to do to get out and meet more people. But in the opportunities I have taken to socialize with new and varied groups, I’ve found that it’s very difficult to find people with whom I relate. Most foreign English speakers around my age in Seoul are here spreading their wings, not taking their job (which is usually teaching English) all that seriously, and living the kind of lifestyle I left back in the Champaign-Urbana campustown. Few 25 year-old expatriates are pursuing what I’d call a career in Seoul. I’m here as a professional, doing something I’ve been preparing and training for since before the age of 18. At first, even Jessica had a difficult time understanding why I won’t be able to leave Korea without my next career move solidly in place. So, it’s not difficult to find fellow Americans or English speakers, but beyond the casual niceties of conversational banter, I find our mindsets are often worlds apart. This is why meeting someone like Jessica, who was so fervently preparing herself for a similar chapter in her life, was fortuitous. That’s also why it’s so hard to see her go. I can just hear my Dad say, “Well, when you decide to live half-way around the world in a foreign country, you have be prepared to deal with things like this. You aren’t there permanently, and chances are, the people you befriend aren’t either.”

It sounds very strange to say, “I need to start looking for a new friend.” As someone who has, thankfully, never been at a loss for close friends, shopping for a new one is unchartered territory. I keep thinking about all the times I’ve urged my single friends in pursuit of love to, “Just go hang out at a coffee shop! You’re bound to meet someone there!” Now I’m finding it’s easier said than done, even when you’re only looking for friendship. During a recent visit to Starbucks the only English conversations I overheard were either incessant, bitter railings about Korea (for which I have no patience—if you don’t like it, leave!) and a discussion which included the misogynous proclamation, “You show me the most beautiful woman in the world and I’ll show you a guy who’s tired of putting up with her sh@&!” Charming. Maybe we should be friends and go out for Korean BBQ together.

The good news is, as the spring weather draws people to the streets like ants spilling from a hill, it’s a good time to explore the city, learn a few new bus routes, and keep my eyes and ears perked for potential friends. I could always start out with the line, “You show me the most handsome man in the world and I’ll buy you a cup of coffee.”

Kenya project comes to fruition!

2008-04-25T17:17:00.007+09:00

In January 2007 I traveled to Kenya with University of Illinois journalism professor Nancy Benson and UI law professor Patrick Keenan to investigate the conflict that arises between humans and wildlife around the Masai Mara wildlife reserve. I shot about twelve hours of videotape throughout Kenya, but mostly in the rural settlements of the nomadic Maasai tribe. Professor Benson has since produced a short documentary using the material we gathered and enlisted a UI graduate student to edit the video (since I'm now on another foreign adventure!). The piece has aired on the Public Broadcasting System affiliate in Urbana, IL, WILL-TV, as part of the award-winning "Prairie Fire" series. This was my second contribution to "Prairie Fire"; I produced a feature for the series three years ago after my reporting trip to Peru. You can watch the Kenya piece below. Please excuse the awkward first frame!

Hanna, du, se . . . he's outta there!

2008-04-23T12:58:00.012+09:00

Last weekend's sunny, warm weather offered the perfect scenario to enjoy America's pastime . . . in Seoul. I went to a baseball game at Jamsil Stadium in southern Seoul on Sunday afternoon. The Doosan Bears took on the SK Wyverns. "What the heck's a wyvern?!" you ask. Don't bother asking the Korean fans who were waving and wearing Wyvern paraphernalia. When I asked the red clad couple next to me, "What's a wyvern?" they offered no response, just stared at me with wide eyes (although I can't be certain they even understood the question). In case you're truly interested, as I was, you can read about wyerns here.

The Doosan Bears had a very hip, sexy, female cheering squad. The Wyverns had an enthusiastic young chap leading dances and cheers and commanding the crowds every move with a whistle.

Jamsil Stadium

No, this isn't Busch Stadium . . . a fan of my home team roots for the Wyverns in Seoul.

I went to a baseball game in Tokyo last August and the beer distributors were young, sexy females with wide smiles and bleached hair carrying pony kegs on their backs. Evidently, Seoul prefers the male counterpart.

The power of soju

2008-04-21T20:59:00.002+09:00

Soju is Korea's trademark booze. A vodka-ish distilled beverage, the ubiquitous green bottles sell for a little bit of nothing, but the stuff will get you a lotta drunk. I can't stomach the stuff, but it's clear this guy drank enough for both of us on Sunday before knocking off for a snooze outside Jamsil Stadium in Seoul. I'm just impressed by the orderly arrangement of his penny (or won) loafers.

Shabeu Shabeu

2008-04-18T11:53:00.003+09:00

Read the post below (Saengil Chukahaeyo, Sophia!) before watching this video. Then grab a bowl of popcorn and experience the thrill of watching fresh seafood boil alive!

Seangil Chukahaeyo, Sophia!

2008-04-18T10:42:00.009+09:00

The KBS World Radio English team celebrated Sophia's birthday last Friday with a lunch of "Shabeu Shabeu", essentially a pot of fresh seafood boiled alive at your table. I've eaten my share of seafood in this lifetime, but this was a special experience I'll never forget. I'm no animal rights activist, but watching my soon-to-be lunch writhe in a pot of boiling water right next to my glass of beer was an eye-opener. The event was complete with a chocolate cake, U.S. style, since my experience with Jessica's cake has made me a master finagler of American recipes in the land of morning calm.

Part of our crew just getting started with the Shabeu Shabeu

Sophia didn't want to wait for this guy to die

Sarah says, "Don't fight it, buddy!" pushing the crab into the boiling water as Chris watches in wonder

A great meal topped off with a delicious chocolate cake

18th General Election

2008-04-14T16:40:00.004+09:00

South Korea held its 18th general election last week. After a 13-day official campaign period, President Lee Myung-bak's Grand National Party snagged a majority of parliamentary seats, paving the way for Lee administration policy to pass the National Assembly. I've long bemoaned the excessive campaign period U.S. politicians enjoy, yet South Korea's 13 days seemed incredibly short. Candidates had no choice but to hit the ground running, trying to cover constituencies, shake hands, and hold babies as quickly and efficiently as the next guy or gal on the docket. Most campaign workers seemed to fit a fairly narrow demographic. In Korea, they're called ajummas. That refers to married, usually middle-aged and older women. To the left, a couple "campaign ajummas" (as I call them) hit Seoul streets early on a Sunday morning. You can see a banner promoting candidate #2 in the background. Banners of this type, ajummas dressed like this pair, and trucks outfitted with booming PA systems, podiums, and large television screens were seen all over Seoul during the campaign period.

Cherry Blossoms everywhere!

2008-04-10T20:15:00.009+09:00

I've been waiting over six months to see Korea's famous cherry blossoms in all their glory. This week will be the best time all year to enjoy the ephemeral blossoms, as they blow away with wind or rain almost as quickly as they appear. Last Friday I walked to work among bare trees. By Monday, the streets along KBS were lined with beautiful, bountiful cherry blossoms. Definitely a sight to behold.

The view of Yeouido Park from my office

Sophia's daughter, Debbie, reluctantly agreed to be my model

A couple good ole boys enjoy a cup of coffee in Yeouido Park on Monday

Wednesday was Election Day, so most Koreans had the day off . . . voter turnout was only 46% because most of them were checking out the cherry blossoms, not the polls!

A Seoulite takes a stroll through Yeouido Park Monday

Street food hits Yeouido Park!

Visual Pollution

2008-04-05T08:41:00.011+09:00

I work in an area of the city zealously referred to as the "Manhattan" of Seoul. With a cluster of high-rise office buildings, the National Assembly headquarters, and a large city park, Yeouido island sits on the south side of the Han River and is the center of South Korean politics. Ironically, the name Yeouido translates to "useless". As one of Seoul's business districts, it has a very white-collar feel--suited professionals toying with cell phones and Blackberries, commuters racing across six lanes of traffic just in time for the light to change, and sidewalks and cafes saturated between noon and one o'clock. It's lively in its own right, but one thing my area of Yeouido is lacking is color. Aside from the large park in the center of the island that offers an abundance of colors in autumn and at least a little green in the spring and summer, the area is pretty boring, aesthetically. Travel beyond Yeouido's concrete and glass and you'll find parts of Seoul plastered with so much color you'd think a Skittles factory exploded nearby. Whenever I pass through these areas in a bus or taxi I feel like an awestruck country girl cruising the city for the first time. The flashing lights advertising bars and 24-hour saunas and huge, colorful advertisements seem to go on forever--up every building, down every alley, and reflecting off the windows of taxis buzzing by. The Seoul city government calls the excess of neon lights, signboards, and advertisements "visual pollution" and it's taking measures to ensure the mayhem doesn't spread. Starting this month, businesses in developing areas will only be allowed one sign of restricted proportions and flashing lights on signboards will be completely banned. In a March press conference, Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon said, "Many advertisements on Seoul streets have gone long beyond their informative function and become 'visual pollution,' which has posed a big obstacle to Seoul's revival as a city of high-quality design." Since the law is not retroactive, the areas already "polluted" probably won't see much change. While it's becoming difficult to photograph some of Seoul's historic landmarks without capturing tacky neon lights in the background, I must admit that the bright and colorful parts of the city are part of what makes Seoul, well, Seoul, to me. I learned to read Korean by testing myself on signboards I pass between home and work, and I can't deny the feeling of excitement and wonder I get from these bright, bustling neighborhoods in a place that couldn't be more different from small-town America. At the end of the day, I really am a country girl in a big, foreign city and its visual pollution is all part of the thrill. So as Seoul's increasingly Western-influenced government pushes the city to become recognized as a global hot spot of business and culture, I just hope they don't take too much of Korea away.

To the right and below, two sides of a building in my neighborhood.

This example is not an anomaly. Many buildings are completely covered in signs.

Hanging out in bright Hongdae

Some kindergarteners add a splash of color to Yeouido during KBS tour last autumn

Operation Chocolate Cake

2008-03-30T20:21:00.004+09:00

In my six months living in Korea I’ve figured out how to take care of the basics: grocery shopping, dry cleaning, finding a gym, getting from one part of the city to the other. Other seemingly simple endeavors can become extremely complex, particularly if I’m anticipating that they'll be simple. A case in point is my pursuit of a home-baked chocolate cake, complete with chocolate icing. Jessica’s only birthday request this year was a big piece of fluffy, chocolate cake. You can find “chocolate cake” in Korea, but it never tastes the way you expect it to. Your mouth waters as you gaze at the slices just beyond a bakery's glass case, but once you fork over the exorbitant price and take the first bite, you realize it’s either too airy, not sweet enough, or possesses some other quality that leaves you thinking, “I just ate 200 calories for nothing.” So, the first task of my mission was to get my hands on a cake mix from the States. Thankfully, this hurricane was borne of an even stronger and more determined force: Paula Rhodes (a.k.a. Mom). Empathetic to the sweet tooth of strangers far and wide, Mom immediately jumped to the task and located a light-weight cake mix and corresponding icing mix and mailed them to Korea weeks ahead of Jessica's big day. That’s when I had to step up and see this plan through to completion, which meant finding a cake pan and candles (I figured out where to find eggs and butter sometime during week two in Korea). Who knew a cake pan would be so hard to come by? In fact, who knew no one in the wider Gwangmyeong City area even sells a standard 9x13 pan (or however that converts to centimeters). I started to wonder if the slices of cake I’ve seen sold in local bakeries and coffee houses were actually baked slice by slice.

My pursuit of a cake pan took the bulk of an evening and meant I didn’t have time to hit the gym. Of course, that didn’t really matter after I traversed Seoul and Gwangmyeong for hours looking for a pan that would suffice, my enthusiasm for the cake effort quickly diminishing. As I ambled up and down aisle after aisle, I realized that this effort taking me an entire evening in Korea would have been completed in a 20-minute trip to Wal-Mart in the States—and that’s only if I didn’t already have a plethora of pans waiting for me in my kitchen cupboard at home (which I would). Just when I was ready to kick of my high heels and continue the search in stocking feet, I finally found a little square pan, but it was only 20cm x 20cm. “Okay, Abby, roll with the punches. You can make two cakes with a smaller pan!” As I walked home, feeling equal parts defeated and relieved, I realized my lacking conversion skills, not to mention non-existent math prowess, would plague this entire effort. The cake mix from the States called for measurements in tablespoons and cups and my kitchen (far from Suzie Homemaker’s utopia) is devoid of any kind of measuring apparatus, let alone those of the American variety. The butter I found at my local grocery store (which cost me nearly $10) came in a huge block, not four convenient sticks like this lazy American is used to. Thankfully, the eggs came in typical form, otherwise I would have thrown up my arms in utter vexation. Saturday morning I approached my oven, ready to put an end to this fiasco and get this thing baked. The box says 350 degrees, but the dial on my oven only goes to 300 . . . oh yeah, Celcius. After booting up my computer and consulting a handy Internet converter, I was able to overcome obstacle number 5,000 in this mission. So I mixed up the batter, throwing arbitrary amounts of water and butter into the fray, baked the cake at a temperature somewhere between 100 and 250 degrees Celcius, and ended up with two decent-looking 20cm x 20cm squares of chocolately goodness. The 200 . . . or 500 . . . calories this cake will add to my hips will not be regretted!

Abby Off-air

2008-03-28T18:01:00.004+09:00

By popular demand (heh heh) I've created a blog specifically for KBS "fans". My bosses at KBS World have been suggesting for months that our Internet team place a link to "Hurricane Abby Hits Seoul" on the KBS website. Since I consider this space a place to write candidly about all my experiences, positive or otherwise, I elected instead to create an additional blog for KBS purproses. Check out the updated KBS World website! (Hint: look to the right)

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/

Saengil Chukhahaeyo, Jessica!

2008-03-26T20:11:00.004+09:00

That's, "Happy birthday, Jessica!" We went out for BBQ last night to celebrate. That's a big pile of Korea's most famous side dish, kimchi, on the far left. I prefer it cooked on a grill like this as opposed to cold, the way it's usually served. Kimchi, which is fermented cabbage spiced with red pepper, is served with nearly every meal. It has taken Jessica six months to finally hand over the tongs and shears to yours truly.

Wilmie, Jessica, and me before our BBQ feast.

Happy Easter!

2008-03-24T20:53:00.004+09:00

Mr. Chae and Sophia had no idea what they were getting into when they decided to hire me.

When I entered KBS on Friday morning, a group of employees holding huge Easter baskets were handing out these hard-boiled eggs and little packets of salt and saying, "Hoppy East-ah!"

Just life

2008-03-21T16:31:00.000+09:00

Next week will mark my six month "anniversary" in Korea. At times I can't believe it's already been half a year, but then I think back to my perceptions of the country when I first arrived, how much I didn't know, all the things I've learned in six months and it seems like an eternity since I stepped off the plane at Incheon International Airport. For the first several months every day brought a new adventure, an interesting discovery, or an awkward moment. While I'm sure I'll never cease to experience awkward moments in a place where I don't speak the official language and am still working to grasp the intricacies of the culture, I continue to consider such episodes the highlights of my week. Loyal readers will remember my befuddling moment in a taxi a few weeks ago when I realized the driver was relieving himself in the front seat. That story has served me well over cups of coffee and glasses of wine with many a friend and I actually feel privileged to have the tale in my personal repertoire. After I described the incident to my friend and co-worker, Matt, who is currently writing a book about his experiences in Korea, he said, "I need that stuff for my book! Why is your life perfect?!"

About three weeks ago I realized I was at a turning point in my Korean adventure. A noticeable side effect of this developing change is the lower frequency of posts to this blog. I experienced my epiphany as I was heading home from work after what had been a busy day in radio world. I was half way home on the same bus I take every evening around 6:00. I was flipping through a Time Magazine, catching up on the latest in the charade of American politics, but my mind was wandering to my plan to workout when I got home, maybe cook some chicken breasts after that, and the fact that I should soon mail my next car payment to the U.S. I wasn't paying attention to the bus radio blaring the boisterous ramblings of Korean DJs. I wasn't staring wide-eyed at all the bright lights and signboards with their humorous Konglish creations. Even the funky smell on the bus--the origin of which could be anything ranging from kimchi breath, to body odor, to an unidentifiable city stench--was flying under the radar of my normally overactive olfactory function. It was at this moment that I realized this isn't really an adventure anymore. It's just my life. It's not a strange place where simple jaunts to the grocery store are exhausting cultural exchanges that transcend language barriers. At KBS, I take initiative and do my job just like I would in the States; just another colleague, no longer a novelty with blue eyes and a journalism degree. When the work day is over, I socialize with friends or go home to exercise, cook, clean, or watch movies.

So, as the bus PA system announced the next stop in Korean, I didn't wait to hear the English translation chime in afterwards. These days, of all the things that occur to me in every 24-hour period, more of them seem "normal" than seem different, weird, or confusing. So, maybe Seoul hasn't quite recovered from the onslaught of Hurricane Abby--maybe it never will--but I've certainly adapted well to my home away from home.

A Yellow Spring

2008-03-17T12:08:00.009+09:00

Surgical masks seem to be a mainstay of Korean fashion, a trend I noticed immediately upon arriving in Seoul. The accessory transcends seasons as well as generations, with Koreans young and old sporting masks as they go about a myriad of daily activities. Okay, perhaps the pursuit of fashion doesn't really enter the equation, but regardless of their mission, many Koreans strap on white masks whenever they step outdoors. I expected to see an exodus of masks after cold season had subsided, but on the contrary, I've been seeing more of them in recent weeks. And not only has the sheer number of sightings increased, but so has the variety of colors, fabrics, and styles. The other noticeable change around Seoul these days is the air; it's become hazier, and some days it's so thick you consider chewing before taking it into your lungs. The culprit is yellow dust (a.k.a. Asian dust) which journeys from the Gobi Desert in China and Mongolia and Kazakhstan to eastern Asia every spring via surface winds. Seoul has been spared the three significant sand storms so far this year, but is likely to see a powdering of the yellow stuff before spring fades into summer.

The shot above comes from the Grace Travel webiste; a warning to tourists . . . spring might not be the best time to visit Korea. It looks ominous, and it should. Increasing industrial pollutants (thanks, China) have turned the merely irritating meteorological phenomenon into a very dangerous health concern, hence the surgical masks.

I stole this satellite image from the KBS website. You can clearly see the yellow dust making its way across eastern Asia. In extreme cases, air quality on the west coat of the United States can be affected by yellow dust.

It's good to be a Korean kid

2008-03-10T20:09:00.007+09:00

As Sophia and I were going over the day's shows this morning, a woman I didn't recognize approached and laid two brightly-wrapped, rectangular boxes on our desk. She said something to Sophia in Korean, Sophia smiled and replied, then the woman continued to pass out more boxes around the office. My typical modus operandi when someone hands me a gift and/or money is to take it, no questions asked, but as with most things in Korea, I figured there was probably an interesting story behind this apple-green box on my desk. Sophia explained that the woman (who, apparently, I should have recognized) was distributing gifts of tteok (Korean rice cakes) in celebration of the 100th day of her son's life.

The son was nowhere to be found, but as I glanced down the length of our office, I spotted at least ten people either pulling apart pieces of sticky tteok or shoving it in by the mouthful. We're talking a lot of brightly-colored boxes, all in honor of someone who can't even roll over on his own. Now, for me to criticize this ritual would be somewhat akin to the pot calling the kettle black. Once I was old enough to realize that my birthday was, in fact, a day to honor me, I quickly moved the party venue from the dining room table of my home to a more spacious location where I could sit atop a pool table to open my presents while all my adoring fans watched from a decidedly lower level. (All of a sudden it's becoming clear to me why the audience for my birthday parties slowly dwindled over the years.) Later in the day I was researching for a show when I realized maybe I shouldn't feel so bad about demanding such undivided attention on my special day. I found the picture below on www.korea.net with the caption: The lucky baby boy delights in his first birthday party, known as "Dol" in Korea, at the Seoul Plaza Hotel, Sunday (Mar. 9).

During the Dol janchi ritual, the baby is urged to pick up one of the items on the table. Whichever item he or she chooses supposedly determines his or her fate. I'm still battling my decision to dive into my first year birthday cake with reckless abandon. I'm forever doomed to a propensity for overeating and utter disregard for the remains of my last meal on my cheek (the latter, however, is at least in part genetic--thanks, Grampa John).

When ya gotta go . . .

2008-02-29T20:21:00.006+09:00

Every once in awhile I push my bladder to the limit. I get wrapped up in something, I'm lazy, or just don't have the opportunity to take care of business. Sometimes, once I realize my situation has become dire, I think I could go anywhere. Apparently, my taxi driver had reached such an apex of discomfort today. I hopped a taxi from KBS to my dentist's office this afternoon and about five minutes into the ride noticed that the surroundings were quite peaceful. The car radio was turned off, not spewing the typical array of dubious American covers. Traffic was decent so the cacophony of honking horns was muted to a tolerable level. Quite peaceful, indeed, and a good opportunity to catch up on some reading. I was knee-deep in the letters section of the latest National Geographic when I detected a curious sound coming from the front seat. It sounded like liquid being poured onto plastic. That's when I noticed that Mr. Taxidriver's hands weren't on the wheel. His arms were clearly positioned somewhere in his lap and as he casually looked around, scoping out the nondescript apartment buildings and neon signs outside the car, I came to the shocking realization that he was, in deed, relieving himself. I was utterly nonplussed. As I sat there considering whether this was a weird Korea thing, or just a weird thing, I couldn't decide whether to feel violated, humored, or disgusted. I settled on something involving all three. I think it was the utter nonchalance Mr. Taxidriver demonstrated that most appalled me. Some people have difficulty letting loose in a bathroom if they know people outside the door may be able to hear. This guy had no such qualms. As he completed the task and buttoned up, I just returned to my National Geographic and thought, "At least he didn't have to go number two."

No Smoking . . . unless you want to

2008-02-25T16:29:00.004+09:00

I've long noticed the unmistakable stench of cigarette smoke present in bathroom stalls and stairwells around KBS, but until today had never actually witnessed someone lighting up. There are "No Smoking" signs posted in recording studios throughout the building, and odd stickers applied to bathroom stall doors that, as far as I can tell, imply one of two things; 1) crabs are using our toilets or, 2) crabs prefer unfiltered cigarettes when using the toilet. Despite the ambiguous warnings, five minutes in a bathroom at KBS can leave you smelling like you've been hanging out in a smoky tavern for hours. I often see men (never women) standing in stairwells, wafts of smoke circling around them, but the sources of the fumes are always concealed, as though they don't realize the smell and reduced visibility in the area are a dead giveaway. And today, a first; I watched a cavalier gentleman light up with the suave mystique of a 1950s movie star while sauntering down the hallway outside my office. According to my sources, you're "not supposed to" smoke in the building, but apparently that rule isn't strictly enforced, and certainly not to someone who looks so cool in the act.

While smoking is quite prevalent among Korean men (around 4 in 10), the women who partake of cancer sticks usually do so in private places (such as bathroom stalls) where they can't be seen. Just last week I noticed two very feminine, well-dressed 20-something Korean girls crouched in a back alley of a busy downtown district, puffing away. I've never seen a Korean woman smoking openly, so unless there really are crabs using the bathrooms in KBS, someone is breaking the rules!

Valentine's Day--Korea

2008-02-15T16:48:00.004+09:00

Korean's have figured out a way to recognize Valentine's Day while building a second-chance day for men and a separate day for cynics right into the system. Valentine's Day in Korea is a time for women to bestow upon men chocolates, candies, and the like. The lucky ones with both X and Y chromosomes can sit back and be showered with gifts from wives, girlfriends, sweethearts, daughters, even co-workers. It's completely acceptable, and often expected, for females to buy chocolates for all the men in their lives, regardless of the nature of the relationship. Of course, if the brown-nosing men out there want to go ahead and buy gifts for their sweeties on Valentine's Day, the gifts aren't likely to be turned down. The men aren't expected to reciprocate in any way, however—until White Day on March 14. That's the day women hope to get their due. So, I think of it as a second chance for men, since most probably screwed up Valentine's Day in some fashion anyway. And for those who get shafted on either of those days, or are otherwise disgruntled, there's April 14, Black Day. Black bean noodles called jjajangmyun (짜 장 뮨) are consumed by the bowlful by black-clad singles and cynics who use the day as their personal revenge against holidays dedicated to love.

Cognizant of the customs regarding Valentine's Day here in Korea, I was anxious to see how things played out among my co-workers and friends. The men in the office certainly received many more chocolates and gifts than the women, although I did get a few treats, myself. Our English service intern (a female) gave me a chocolate with a note that almost brought a tear to my eye:

Dear Abbie (smiley face)
Happy Valentine! Pretty Abbie (smiley face) though there's been little time to talk, I 'shall' know you have a warm heart! I like your voice on radio, so, please let me hear it for a long time (smiley face)
Ji-yeon

I'll let you know how things go on White Day next month. If this system works like the well-oiled machine I think it is, I should rake in some serious chocolate on April 14.

National Treasure #1 goes down in history, up in flames

2008-02-11T21:12:00.001+09:00

Korea's most well-known national landmark, designated National Treasure #1, was destroyed in a fire Sunday night. The 610 year-old Sungnyemun, better known as Namdaemun Gate, went up in flames in a suspected arson. There's controversy over how the disaster was handled, but the bottom line is the wooden part is history. The stone base still stands, and the government says it will restore the gate to its original design. The gate was modified under Japanese colonial rule.

There was mixed reaction around KBS today in response to the event. Some people seemed absolutely devastated, given the significance of the site being designated a national treasure. Others weren't phased and even suggested the "gate" is rather laughable, the only historic structure among modern sky scrapers and bustling city streets. Apparently there's enough appreciation, however, for the government to agree to a $21 million restoration. The project should be completed in three years.

The aftermath

Yoko, Josh, and me in front of Namdaemun in November, 2007

Ice Skating with Dr. Choi and Family

2008-02-11T15:25:00.003+09:00

Dr. Choi's soon, Brian, got a perm because the most talented kid on his soccer team has a perm. No report yet on whether there's a correlation between soccer skill and curly hair.

Brian pretty much just pulled me around the rink.

Hmm . . . maybe I should get a perm . . .

Seollal

2008-02-09T23:14:00.000+09:00

On February 7 Koreans celebrated the lunar New Year, or Seollal in Korean. Known to many Westerners as the Chinese New Year, this is one of Korea's biggest holidays, perhaps the biggest. Like Chuseok, the Korean Thanksgiving, this holiday means a tremendous amount of work for women, particularly the wives of eldest sons. My boss, Sophia, for instance, hosted her in-laws for over a week, preparing huge meals on a daily basis. Part of the tradition of Seollal involves a pilgrimage to one's hometown, so the holiday is marked by an exodus of Seoulites from the city. Traffic last Monday and Tuesday was horrendous. Flights out of the country to places like Japan, the U.S., and southeast Asia were completely booked weeks ago (since many people use the vacation time to travel abroad) . Once I heard that, I actually started to feel a little trapped . . . I couldn't even leave if I wanted to! By Wednesday the streets of Seoul were considerably less congested and typically bustling shopping areas were eerily quiet. Those who stay in Korea are somewhat compelled to head to their home towns to pay respects to their ancestors who are memorialized there. So, with Seoul looking like a ghost town, I'm thinking, "Doesn't anyone call Seoul his hometown?!"

I spent the holiday ice skating and dining at the Seoul Grand Hyatt with a Korean doctor and his family. I've given a few English lessons to Dr. Choi, so he and his wife invited me to join them for some New Year's celebration. I was supposed to eat the traditional holiday dish, a soup called tteokguk which is supposed to make you a year older every time you eat it, but I somehow dodged that bullet. I have a hard enough time trying to figure out how old Koreans are (since they're considered 1 year old when they're born, plus the lunar New Year throws an additional kink in the system) without this superstition clouding my perception. Two weeks ago Sophia's daughter was 8 years old in Korea and 7 years old in Western age. She's somehow now 9 years old in Korea and still 7 years old in Western age . . . and she didn't have a birthday! Your guess is as good as mine.

And Koreans think eel is for eating . . . pshaw!

2008-01-31T21:21:00.000+09:00

Last week I gave into a three-month hankering for a custom-made eel skin briefcase. I noticed the store, "Golden Eel Skin" (simplicity is always good), during my first week in Korea and I haven't been able to keep myself away since. I believe I've personally kept Mr. Eel Skin in business for the last four months. A portion of each of my paychecks might as well be directly deposited to this little shop in Itaewon.

My shiny new briefcase was well worth the wait. Since I've never been very good at the whole delay of gratification thing, I was very proud of my ability to hold out and save up for this special purchase. It's just too bad that's not my personal handbag closet we're standing in.

You Snooze, You Lose!

2008-01-27T10:52:00.000+09:00

My Mom has graciously supplied the KBS World Radio English section with decorations for every American holiday since I've been in Korea. Last week I received three headbands with springy hearts attached for Valentine's Day--one each for Sophia, Mr. Chae, and me. Mr. Chae was skeptical at first, and particularly concerned once we informed him that he's expected to wear the headband the entire day on February 14th. Since Mr. Chae has narcoleptic tendencies, I warned him that if he falls asleep in the office, he's likely to wake up sporting bouncing hearts on his head. The perfect opportunity didn't take long to present itself. This shot was taken last Friday afternoon.

It's 6 degrees below 0 in Seoul . . . Celsius

2008-01-26T09:33:00.000+09:00

My goal of the week has been to wrap my mind around the metric temperature scale. Sometime back in junior high science class I was taught (although I probably wasn't listening) how to convert Fahrenheit temperatures to Celsius, as well as the history behind the development of each system. I'm sure I figured it out, but as with anything I don't really need to know, I promptly forgot the equation and went on happily and comfortably thinking of temperature solely within the realm of the U.S. standard. The same goes for measurements for length, weight, and capacity. To this day when someone mentions "liter" or "hectare" I immediately go into deer-in-the-headlights mode, my palms get sweaty, and I realize maybe I should have been paying attention in that junior high science class instead of reading Teen Magazine under my desk. This week I discovered a handy little tool right on my computer desktop at work. I've always had a little window in the corner that tells me what the current Seoul temperature is, as well as the three-day forecast. It was installed on my desktop when I started working at KBS, and was already set to forecast in Fahrenheit. During another mind-is-a-blank-slate moment this week, as I was staring unproductively at my computer screen, I noticed the "F" next to the temperature reading was clickable. Since not touching or messing with things has never been my strong point, I clicked on it and all the readings turned to Celsius. Now, we're talkin'! So, for the rest of the week I periodically clicked back and forth to get a rough idea of what the conversion would be. I started to test myself by the end of the week . . . "Okay, 29 degrees Fahrenheit . . . if it's -1 or -2 Celsius, I'll allow myself a cookie from the coffee shop this afternoon," (every accomplishment should come with some kind of reward). So, for the sole reason of being tired of feeling like an idiot, I'm taking proactive measures to understand a concept it seems the rest of the world has mastered. The rest of the world and its ultra logical system for measurement . . . that's a blog for another day.

"Mr. Lee's" Shrimp Truck

2008-01-20T20:08:00.000+09:00

Last week I mentioned that the lure of street food in all its greasy, scrumptious glory has finally proved too formidable for my tenuous willpower. Just about the time I was losing my hold on self-control, a little man set up a mobile fried shrimp restaurant right outside my apartment building. Mr. Lee (let's just him Mr. Lee--it's a safe bet) is now a nightly fixture outside Useong Apartments, his product sizzling in vats of boiling oil, sending wafts of fried goodness through the air. How's a girl to resist? It's particularly difficult to just-say-no on cold nights when Mr. Lee looks like such an unfortunate soul, bound to a life of frying street shrimp despite brutal winter weather.

Now Mr. Lee's little business endeavor has me battling my inner obese person on a daily basis. The battle between the fat devil on my right shoulder and the trim angel on my left begins about ten minutes before the bus drops me off outside my apartment building. The only thing saving me from utter gluttony is the fact that Mr. Lee has yet to discover a little secret known as cocktail sauce.

Good thing I'm a "people person"

2008-01-19T10:25:00.001+09:00

In my residential neighborhood outside of Seoul proper, it's sometimes easy to forget that over ten million people call South Korea's capital home. A short subway ride into the heart of the metropolis offers a quick reality check. Here are some photos that demonstrate just how packed this place is. Weekend jaunts for shopping or sight-seeing can be exhausting, battling dense crowds pushing and shoving as everyone vies for that last seat on the subway train.

A shot of a traditional market area, Namdaemun, on a weekend. It's difficult to stop and ponder merchandise at any of the stands because the crowd pushes you through.

This shot was taken as I was transferring from one subway line to another on a Friday afternoon. It was approaching rush hour, so things only got worse after this.

Another shot in the subway. Because I'm so short, I usually have no idea how far away my destination is. I have to focus on the floor to make sure I'm prepared to maneuver any steps that come up.

Meeguks on Ice

2008-01-03T22:11:00.001+09:00

I went ice skating near Seoul City Hall today. The place was packed since most school children are on a one-month vacation right now. It was my first time ice skating, but I managed to stay upright the entire time. I would share pictures of my double axles, but I was moving too quickly for a good shot.

Christmas gifts all around

2007-12-30T10:09:00.001+09:00

Seohyun and Seojin with their mom. I gave them nail polish, barrettes, and memo pads for Christmas. They gave me gloves, a framed picture of them together, and a fancy holiday cake from a popular Seoul bakery.

Debbie models her t-shirt from her "American Grandma" (a.k.a. my Mom)

Danny prepares to create an artistic masterpiece with gifts from his "American Grandma". Not seen are the John Deere tractors Danny LOVED.

I gave Debbie "Twister" for Christmas.

Someone had to teach her how to play . . .

Meh-dee Ku-dee-seu-mah-soo!

2007-12-26T22:14:00.000+09:00

Or, Merry Christmas! I hope everyone had a lovely holiday. I spent most of the day volunteering in soup kitchen at a Seoul homeless shelter. My co-workers, Sarah and Chris, and I had a great time chopping, skinning, cleaning, and serving. We wore floor-length vinyl aprons and tall rubber boots, since the easiest way to clean up the kitchen is to periodically hose everything down.

America gets a bad wrap for over-commercializing Christmas, but I think the Koreans are giving us a run for our money. The 25ish% of Christians in the country recognize the "true meaning" of the holiday, but from what I can tell, the celebration is mostly about fancy cakes, parties, and date nights. Christmas is considered a couples holiday here, much like Valentine's Day in the U.S. On my subway ride home last night, a multitude of couples could be seen nuzzling up to one another as the train threw us all from side to side, barreling down the tracks. I unintentionally slammed into more than a few pairs when the train turned and stopped suddenly . . . talk about awkward. Perhaps they thought I was just a bitter, single meeguk (American) expressing my disdain for the amorous atmosphere. I must have looked pretty pathetic because at one point, an elderly gentlemen gestured to a young, good-looking couple holding hands, and then tried to hold MY hand. Thanks, buddy. I needed that.

I survived my first Christmas away from home, but I'm not sure I'll be able to trade turkey and dressing for kimchi in perpetuity. I am thoroughly enjoying my life in Korea, and I probably wouldn't have come home for the holidays even if I had a free ticket. I believe fully experiencing this culture sometimes means leaving my own behind. That being said, I think I've come to the realization that I'm probably not cut out for long-term international life. The holidays bring the importance of time with family and friends into perspective, and life is just too short to miss out on Christmas after Christmas, birthday after birthday, and any other opportunity to eat mass quantities of down-home, fatty American food.

Everyone Loves Christmas Tunes

2007-12-23T19:53:00.000+09:00

I emerged from a movie theater onto a busy city plaza Saturday evening to the sound of traditional Christmas tunes being sung in Korean. Although the audio quality was horrendous, the group of older Koreans wearing yellow sashes (no idea what they indicate) belting out Christmas carols in their native language was quite entertaining. I've always wondered how songs can be translated into a different language and still fit the beat of the original score. Anyway, the real highlight of this clip comes a few seconds in when you can see one passerby demonstrating his appreciation for the music. Enjoy!

KBS World Radio Year-End Party

2007-12-21T22:02:00.001+09:00

The KBS World Radio year-end party was held at a casual, but delicious Korean barbeque joint about ten minutes from our office. We packed the place and had a great time eating, drinking, and chatting.

Chris Dykas, English team freelancer who hosts a Korean pop music show, as well as other feature programming. Chris is a Korean-American from Los Angeles, California.

Sophia takes charge with the pork barbeque. The technique involves holding big slabs of meat with the tongs and using kitchen shears to cut small, bite-sized pieces.

Sarah Jun, Korean pop music show host, Chris Dykas, and me.

Chris and Sarah acting like the booze is getting to them. Actually, the English team was quite tame. Some of the green bottles are soju (like gin), but most are clear soda.

Head of the Vietnamese service. She moved around every table, challenging everyone to race her in drinking glasses of beer. She was the life of the party.

Chris and me with the former chief of KBS World Radio. Mr. Park is the Arabic service chief.

Christmas in Seoul

2007-12-16T21:15:00.000+09:00

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas . . . in Seoul. It took the city a little longer to become "Christmafied" than most places in the U.S., but now lights, decorations, singing Santas, and Salvation Army bell-ringers are all over the place. The area around Seoul City Hall is particularly bright these days. An ice rink and nearby stream are surrounded in multi-colored lights in palace-type formation. The display is called "Lucevista" and will be up until January 6. See pictures below.

A popular Korean department store, Shinsegae, is covered in sheets of lights.

Mr. Chae and me by a KBS Christmas tree

O ship beon!

2007-12-13T19:40:00.000+09:00

Since samgyeopsal (three-fat pork) has become a weekly staple in my diet, I decided it was high time I join a gym. In a society where great importance is placed on appearance and it seems everyone is on a diet, gyms are ubiquitous. I located a little mom-n-pop operation about two blocks from my apartment last week and sauntered in to inquire about their monthly membership rates. I made my first faux pas just stepping in the door. It's customary to take off your shoes when entering a home or a a restaurant with floor seating, but I didn't realize the same rules apply to gyms. And apparently walking over about five pairs of shoes just to get through the door wasn't hint enough. Once I realized everyone who was paying attention was staring at my feet, I quickly shuffled back out into the entryway and shed my shoes. Through a series of hand gestures, grunts, and facial expressions, I confirmed the membership rates and told the owner I'd be back another day.

So, this Monday I found myself back in the gym, the owner sternly instructing me to do "O ship beon" [fifty more] abdominal exercise "x". Fifty more?! Who do I look like, Rocky Balboa?! This guy does not think it is cute and/or funny that I don't speak Korean. While I smile at my own ignorance, hoping for a little sympathy, he seems to get increasingly annoyed. Although I tried to explain that I really just wanted to run on the treadmill, Mr. Gymowner seemed highly concerned with my mid-section and insisted upon guiding me through rigorous strength training before turning me loose for a cardio workout. I hung up my coat and hadn't gotten three steps outside the locker room when he approached me and used blatant gestures to "explain" we'd be working on my stomach . . . and whatever you call the flab that pokes out of your sides over the band of your exercise shorts. At this point, I was glad I couldn't understand anything that was coming out of his mouth. His message was pretty clear--"Honey, that samgyeopsal is going straight to your gut."

Amid 1970s era posters of body builders, I huffed and puffed my way through Mr. Gymowner's instructions, looking forward to being left alone to commence my treadmill workout. But when the time arrived, I realized every treadmill in the gym was set up on a permanent incline--a significant incline. Not ready for defeat, I decided no hill was too much for me and started running at a fairly brisk pace. That's when I realized everyone else in the gym was watching me (some giggling) and there was no way I would make it any longer than ten minutes at this pace. But now that I had established myself as super woman, I couldn't give up my ambitious run and settle for power walking like some soccer mom. The glass in front of the treadmill reflected my face getting redder and redder and even my most inspring iPod tunes weren't cutting it for this workout. I hammered through 25 minutes with visions of Sylvester Stalone confidently maneuvering the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art before succumbing to my fatigue. I stumbled off the treadmill, my legs feeling like Jell-O, grabbed my things, and rushed out before Mr. Gymowner could catch me and demand, "O ship beon!" of any other maneuver up his sleeve.

Joong Ang Ilbo Article

2007-12-12T21:51:00.000+09:00

The Joong Ang Ilbo, a popular daily newspaper in Seoul, carried a feature article about yours truly in its English edition this week. Click on the link below, then look for "Foreign Community" in the orange menu bar. My article should be the second from the top.

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/list.asp?cat_code=04

B-Boy Korea

2007-12-09T10:08:00.001+09:00

Break dancing and "B-boy" troupes are a very popular part of the hip hop movement in Korea right now. Dance crews from Korea have recently won several international break dancing championships, and there are several groups performing regular shows throughout Seoul. Jessica and I checked out "B-boy Korea" last night, a 90-minute performance that included a thin plot line. It was an amazing display of physical talent, and quite funny, too. Here's a picture of us after the show with some of the star b-boys.

My life this week

2007-12-07T21:32:00.000+09:00

English Service freelancer, Sarah Jun, and Sophia enjoying a Japanese lunch on Monday.

Mr. Chae and me also enjoying a Japanese lunch (or at least Japanese beer!)

Doing my thing in the studio.

My student, Seojin, working diligently.

My student, Seohyeon, learning words for emotions.

Sophia, me, and Mr. Chae after decorating our section for Christmas. It looks much better in person!

Nuclear Negotiator Takes on Hurricane Abby

2007-12-01T22:23:00.000+09:00

Today I met someone whose name I've read at least once weekly during KBS news reports. He is Christopher Hill, Assistant Secretary of State for East Asian and Pacific Affairs, but also chief nuclear negotiator with North Korea. Hill has been in Seoul the last couple of days in preparation for his second trip to Pyongyang (capital of North Korea) on Monday. There, he'll check on the progress of the North's nuclear disablement. He expects China, the host of the next six-party talks, to receive a full declaration outlining the country's nuclear program within the next week.

I attended a lecture given by Hill to a crowd of just around 30 people at Ewha Women's University in Seoul. I found out about the lecture through my friend Jessica who has some connections in the international studies department at Ewha.

Hill gave a thorough, yet straightforward and uncomplicated account of North Korea's nuclear issue from the U.S. perspective. He also took questions from the crowd, and sitting in the front row, of course I jumped right in! He was an extremely laid back, affable man who seems to care genuinely about resolving this issue in a diplomatic fashion.

Jessica and I were thrilled to have the opportunity to meet and speak to Christopher Hill.

Can you believe these gas prices?!

2007-11-30T20:45:00.000+09:00

In the United States for the last few years, the all-purpose topic of conversation, second only to the weather, has been the price of gasoline. If I had a dollar for every time I heard a complaint about the price of gas during 2006, it would probably fill my tank for a year.

Right now, gas prices in Illinois are hovering around $3.00/gallon. The summer I turned 16, it cost me less than $1.00 to put a gallon of gas in my little Mazda Miata. By the time I went to college in 2000, the price per gallon was up around $1.50. At the time, that seemed outrageous. Since then we've watched the price steadily rise, wondering how long it would take to hit the next full dollar.

I started traveling internationally about the time the topic of gas prices became popular fodder for the dinner table, barber shop, and any other place people would gather. After visiting a few different foreign countries and starting to pay more attention to international news, I realized that as much as Americans complain about the price of gas, they're still paying significantly less for it than motorists in the rest of the world.

I've been in Korea for two months and I know plenty of people who drive cars, trucks, and SUVs. They're gluttons for punishment. They'll spend hours fighting bumper to bumper traffic to get to work in the morning using the same route that takes me less than half the time using public transportation. While all those vehicles are sitting motionless along an expressway that looks more like a parking lot, their engines are guzzling around $5.00/gallon worth of gasoline. I recently reported a news story saying Koreans are projected to invest in even more new cars in 2008, but in the two months I've been here, I've only heard one mention of gas prices. Earlier this week, Sophia told me it costs her around $100 to fill her modest, economy-sized car with gas.

So, the next time you start to complain about gas prices, think about the South Koreans . . . or consider moving to Venezuela where the current price per gallon is a whopping $0.14.

A Seoul Thanksgiving

2007-11-28T22:26:00.001+09:00

My brother, Josh, and sister-in-law, Yoko, visited me in Seoul last weekend. Although we didn't have any Thanksgiving turkey, we did enjoy plenty of Korean BBQ and other tasty dishes. We also hit some major sites around the city, including Seoul Tower atop Namsan, a mountain in the middle of the city.

Josh and me during our trek up to Seoul Tower. Yoko wasn't very pleased with us when we accidentally hopped off the bus 2.7 kilometers from the top and then refused to wait for the next bus. We figured, if we hiked the mountain, we wouldn't have to feel guilty about all the Korean BBQ.

A view of the city from Seoul Tower. It was a hazy day, but still a worthwhile trip.

Jessica took us to her favorite samgyapsal (pork BBQ) restaurant, but she couldn't keep her eyes open for a picture!

In front of the historic Seoul city gate, Sungnyemun, which used to protect the city from Korean tigers.

Yoko couldn't get enough of the great Seoul shopping. "Fur" coats for $10!!!

KBS Sports Day

2007-11-25T19:46:00.000+09:00

A couple weeks ago KBS World Radio had a "Sports Day". Every once in awhile a day is set aside for employees to do some kind of recreational activity and this time it was mountain hiking. Charter buses to Bukhansan National Park ("san" means mountain in Korean) left at two different times during the day, allowing for people to stay all day or join the group later in the afternoon. I arrived around 3:00PM, just in time for a hearty meal of Korean-style stew and some Korean pork BBQ. I never actually did any hiking, but given all the food and beer, I'd say it was a successful venture.

"Uke" from the Internet team. He has videotaped several of my interviews. I practically had to bribe him to pose for this photo.

With my Arabic service counterpart.

National University Entrance Exam Day

2007-11-16T21:35:00.000+09:00

This Thursday the high temperature in Seoul dropped a noticeable five degrees from the previous day. Those five degrees were enough to make everyone feel like winter is right around the corner. I hadn't really thought about it feeling colder until I was walking to the subway after work and remembered a sidebar to a prominent news story this week. Thursday, November 15, was national university entrance exam day. Legend says temperatures always dip on this very important day for Koreans. When I first heard that theory, early in the week, I was ready to call the BS card immediately, but I'm not kidding you; it was COLD Thursday!

The temperature is just a small part of the story that surrounds exam day. For one thing, it really is just one day a year. High schoolers get one shot a year to put on their best game face and try to earn their way into one of Korea's top three universities. It's called aiming for the "SKY" because the top three schools are Seoul National University, Korea University, and Yonsei University. If you score well enough to be accepted into one of these schools, you've got a great chance of making your career dreams come true. If you don't score well enough, many Koreans would say you might as well crawl into a hole and die. That's how much pressure there is on these kids to do well. So much that in recent years several suicides have been attributed to the stress associated with this make-or-break exam.

Korean kids are groomed for academic success from the age of two or three. They're enrolled in "nursery schools" where they aren't just cutting out shapes and sloppily gluing them onto construction paper. They're learning foreign languages, how to read, how to play a musical instrument, and a variety of other things. Once kids start going to school, the intensity picks up. School gets out earlier here, around 1:00 or 2:00, but most kids spend the rest of the afternoon and evening attending several different academies. Sophia's daughter, for instance, goes to an English academy, a piano academy, an art academy, and takes swimming lessons. Most of the time, she doesn't go to bed until after 10:00PM . . . and she's 7 years old! Many parents will practically go broke paying for their kids to attend these academies (or "hagwons") because they know their kids can't be competitive academically without additional instruction. I tutor a 14 year-old once a week in English. I meet with him at 7:00PM to help him learn English, just as he's getting home from spending an hour or two at an English hagwon.

So on national university entrance exam day, the government urges all civil servants to go to work one hour later so the public transportation system is less crowded for kids trying to make it to test sites on time. The military halts all flights and shooting drills so as not to distract students during listening portions of the exam. Mothers across the country take photos of their kids to local churches and Buddhist temples to be placed on altars.

So while all these kids were biting their nails and drying their sweaty palms, I started reminiscing about taking the ACT as a junior in high school. I could have taken a prep course to get myself ready for the test, but I thought it sounded boring. I could have purchased a study guide to familiarize myself with the format of the test, but I needed that money for clothes! I probably could have at least gotten an adequate amount of sleep the night before the test, but I was too busy packing because as soon as the exam was over, I was heading to Florida for a vacation. Although I could have taken the test as many times as I was willing to pay to do so, I felt satisfied with my first score and really didn't want to deal with another four-hour exam, anyway. My score was hardly stellar, but just good enough to get me into the university of my choice. I'm not sure pressure entered into the scenario at all. I can guarantee you that even had I scored very poorly, I would not have considered my life to be over. Ironically, most Koreans would look at me in my current situation and say I'm very successful. The sad part is, that's mostly because I speak English.

And I thought I looked like Wonder Woman

2007-11-13T07:51:00.001+09:00

In my limited experience in Asia, I've found that it's typical for people, upon meeting Caucasians, to liken one white face to another. We've all heard boorish references made about all the people of any particular race looking the same, but I've been very surprised by the specific likenesses to which I've been compared.

When I visited Japan during my senior year of high school, someone said I looked like Jodi Foster . . . not sure where that came from.

Last week I was interviewing a professor from Yonsei University. He said I look like Hillary Clinton. Gee, thanks.

But by far the most curious . . . and hilarious . . . comparison came up as I was leaving KBS yesterday. Sophia introduced me to a man who manages the KBS radio studios. As we shook hands, he looked at Sophia and rattled something off in Korean. I thought I heard the word, "fiancee," and I thought, "Wow, that's forward. You could have at least asked me to dinner first!" What he said, though, was "BEYONCE"! So, I guess I fall somewhere in the spectrum between the progressively more haggard looking Hillary Clinton and the tall, voluptuous African-American, Beyonce Knowles.

It's "Ask Teacher" time

2007-11-12T22:44:00.000+09:00

Sojin and Soheon wanted to ask me some questions during our English tutoring session tonight. Somehow, I knew what the first question would be.